We split our time on Senja across different corners of the island, and the conclusion was fast: everything is spectacular, close to a fabulous hiking trail, and each accommodation is part of the experience.

Norway's second-largest island sits about two to three hours from Tromsø by car and ferry. The question isn't whether Senja is worth the detour. It is, and we’re pretty confident you’ll agree. The question is which part of it you want as your base.

This guide covers the best hotels in Senja, including the ones we stayed at, plus one bonus option just outside the island that's too well-positioned to leave out.

If you live in Southern Europe like us, you’re probably really, really hot right now. So, this summer, go up north!

Most people think of Tromsø, Norway, as a winter destination: northern lights, dog sledding, snow-covered peaks. And yes, that version of the city is real and a bit too crowded for our taste. But summer in Tromsø is different!.

The midnight sun runs from mid-May through late July. That means golden light at midnight, warm enough afternoons to swim (brave souls do, and not just Norwegians), wildflowers on the ridgelines, and an incredible energy in the air. You can hike at 11pm and still have hours of light ahead of you. The beaches — with white sand and turquoise water — fill up with locals who wouldn’t even dream of spending the summer in Spain. Oh, and less tourists!

This is our guide to the best things to do in Tromsø in summer.

Kvaløya sits twenty minutes from Tromsø by car, connected by a bridge most people cross on their way somewhere else. Most treat it as a northern lights parking spot in winter, or a stepping stone to Senja or Sommarøy. We visited several times, and eventually stayed a couple of nights. And it turned out to be one of the most extraordinary places we've been in Northern Norway — wild, nearly empty, and completely underrated.

Tromsø, Norway, works perfectly well without a car for a lot of visitors. The city is walkable, the buses are functional, and most of the big tour operators will pick you up from your hotel. If you're spending a few nights chasing the northern lights on guided tours and doing daytime activities in the city, you can get by just fine on foot and public transport.

But if you want to actually explore the region — drive out to fjords on your own schedule, stop where you want, visit Senja (unless you take a day trip), push further toward the Lofoten Islands or the North Cape — a rental car changes the entire trip. Northern Norway is one of the great road trip destinations in the world. A car doesn't just add convenience; it opens up a completely different way of travelling, and absolute freedom.

This guide covers everything you need to know about renting a car in Tromsø, from picking it up at the airport to driving on snow-covered roads in the dark.

Tromsø has become almost synonymous with the northern lights. It sits at 69.6°N, deep inside the auroral oval, with fjords and mountains in every direction and more tour operators than anywhere else in Northern Norway. Every winter, tens of thousands of people fly in with one mission (or shall I say, obsession). Some get lucky on their first night. Others spend a week chasing gaps in the cloud cover. Most land somewhere in between.

We've been to Tromsø more than once — summer and winter — and the honest answer to "is Tromsø good for northern lights?" is: yes, with some caveats you should know before booking anything. This guide to the northern lights in Tromsø tells you when to come, where to go when the sky clears, and how to maximize the nights you have.

Mefjordvær doesn't announce itself. There's no big sign, no tourist infrastructure, no car park full of coaches.

It's a fishing village of about 150 people on the northwest coast of Senja, gathered quietly around a small harbor with the fjord in front and peaks dramatically rising behind. Actually, it’s technically a settlement belonging to Senjahopen.

And right at the water's edge, where the old brygge once stood, is Mefjord Brygge — a resort that has grown up organically around the village.

Tromsø isn't one place to stay — it's five, and the one you pick changes the trip. A central hotel on Tromsøya means walking to everything, but a cabin on Kvaløya means darker skies and a completely different pace. Tromsdalen puts you next to the Arctic Cathedral with a quieter feel than the city. Håkøya Island offers a level of seclusion that's hard to find that close to an airport. And further out — Sommarøy, Malangen, Lyngen — it’s a whole different universe.

This guide covers all of them, with our personal picks at every price point. For aurora-specific recommendations, see our dedicated best hotels in Tromsø for the northern lights guide.

Tranøya is barely a kilometre across. It sits in a quiet bay just off the southern coast of Senja, reachable only by boat, and has been home to Vikings, vicars, and a Copenhagen socialite who followed a young theologian to the Arctic.

Today it's run by two sisters under the name Senja Moments, and it’s one of the most quietly remarkable places to stay in Northern Norway.

Wenche came to pick us up from the shore in her motorboat on a moody, rainy day, which made the whole place even more atmospheric.

Senja has no shortage of dramatic places to sleep, some on par with what you could find in the Lofoten.

But finding a place that puts you right where you want to be — with good food a few steps away, the island's most iconic hikes within reach, and a host who actually grew up here — that's a different thing.

Yttersia Base in Skaland (with adjacent restaurant Nordisk Bris) is that place. We took time to explore the area, appreciated the good night’s rest and delicious meal after hiking, and left with a list of reasons to come back.

There’s passion behind the hotel and restaurant, and this is exactly the type of place we enjoy and happily recommend.

We came to Tromsø for the first time in winter 2009. Since then, the city has changed quiiite a bit. It’s now a true Arctic capital, with a true capital offering, which is surprising at this latitude (thanks, Gulf Stream!). However, most visitors go on a northern lights tour, take the cable car, buy a couple of souvenirs and leave without really exploring Tromsø and its majestic surroundings. This guide of things to see in Tromsø is for the other kind of trip.

Norway's second largest island sits two hours from Tromsø and holds scenery that makes Lofoten look like it has competition. And trust us, the bar is high. Senja's western coast is where the Arctic Ocean meets near-vertical mountain faces, where fishing villages cling to inlets the road barely reaches, and where the beaches look photoshopped even when you're standing on them. The problem — if it is one — is that driving it yourself means watching the road instead of the view. Senja's scenic route is narrow, winding, and entirely worth your full attention on the landscape side of the windscreen. We took Unique Norway's small-group day tour with local guide Henrik, and what follows is what that's like.

Tromsø's hotel scene is dominated almost entirely by chains. Scandic, Radisson, Clarion — if you've looked at where to stay in the city, you've scrolled through a lot of familiar names. Villa Havblikk is different. The owner found a 1917 Norwegian wooden villa in poor condition, bought it, and rebuilt it from the ground up — modern comforts throughout, but vintage decor and furniture that give a lot of character to the place. It sits directly across the Tromsø bridge from the city center in Tromsdalen, near the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, with fjord views and a bar that locals enjoy. We spent time here and came away with a clear opinion on who it's right for.

We switched to a travel eSIM a few trips ago, especially for the US. The logic is simple: roaming charges from your home carrier are expensive and unpredictable, hunting for a local SIM on arrival wastes the first hour of any trip, and a traveling eSIM solves both problems before you've left home. This best eSIM for travel guide covers what a travel eSIM actually is, why Airalo & Nomad eSIM are what we recommend, and what you need to check before buying one.

We've spent a lot of time in Norway across different seasons — Lofoten and Alta in fall chasing the aurora, hiking near Ålesund, dogsledding in Tromsø and snowmobiling in Svalbard in winter, exploring the fjords in summer — and the one thing that's been consistent is how quickly conditions can change and how far from the nearest hospital some of the best parts of the country actually are.

Norwegian mountain rescue is world-class. Norwegian hospital bills, for those who aren't covered, are not cheap.

This guide covers what travel insurance for Norway actually needs to do, what activities require specific coverage, what to watch out for if you assume your existing policy already handles it, and an exclusive discount for our readers with Heymondo.

Nuuk offers more tours than most visitors expect. The fjord system surrounding the capital — Nuup Kangerlua, the second-largest in the world — is the main event, and getting out on the water is what most people remember longest (in our opinion, it’s also spectacular from the top of nearby mountains). Add guided city walks that give the colonial quarter and the Greenland National Museum genuine depth, northern lights excursions in winter, and a solid selection available on the major booking platforms, and Nuuk turns out to be one of the more tour-rich destinations in Greenland. This guide covers everything bookable, how to do it, and what to expect in one of our favorite Arctic cities.

Ilulissat has a small but focused tour offering — which suits the destination. The town is compact, the Icefjord is the main event, and the best experiences here are the ones that get you on the water or into the landscape rather than in a bus. Most of what's worth doing is booked directly with local operators rather than through the big international platforms, and this guide covers exactly what exists, how to book it, and what to expect based on our own experience.

Ilulissat has roughly a dozen hotels, guesthouses, and self-catering cabins for a town of 4,500 people. We've stayed here ourselves — at Cabin Jomsborg, a self-catering cabin sitting ten meters from the water, which turned out to be one of the best accommodation decisions we've made anywhere.

Every property in this guide has icefjord or Disko Bay views in some form. In a town built above a UNESCO World Heritage glacier, there is no such thing as a bad location — only different ways to experience it.

Most people chasing the aurora fly to Iceland or Norway. A smaller group goes to Lofoten. Almost nobody thinks of Greenland for the northern lights — which is, depending on how you weigh the variables, one of the best decisions any aurora hunter could make. The country spans from 60°N to 83°N, sits squarely inside the auroral oval across most of its territory, has almost no light pollution, and offers a sky backdrop that no other northern lights destination in Europe can match: icebergs the size of apartment buildings, lit green from above.

The reason Greenland doesn't dominate aurora travel lists is the same reason it doesn't dominate any travel list — getting here requires a deliberate decision, not a budget flight from London. But for those who make that decision, Greenland northern lights are a different category of experience.

So what does it actually take to see the northern lights in Greenland — and is it worth the effort compared to Iceland or Norway? Here’s how to think about it, and how to plan it properly.

Yes, you can see the northern lights in the Faroe Islands. The question people should be asking isn't whether the aurora appears here — it does — but what it takes for it to appear, and how honest you're willing to be with yourself about the weather. The Faroes are not Iceland. They are not Lofoten. They sit at a latitude where the northern lights demand stronger geomagnetic conditions to show up, and they sit in the North Atlantic, which means cloud cover is a near-permanent feature of life. None of this means you shouldn't come. It means you should come prepared and have realistic expectations.

When the aurora does appear over the Faroe Islands, the backdrop is incredible. Sea cliffs dropping hundreds of meters into the ocean. Grass-roofed villages clinging to hillsides above invisible fjords. A darkness so complete that the Milky Way fills the gaps between passing storm clouds. The Faroes offer an aurora experience that is different — wilder, more remote, less curated — from anywhere else you can chase the lights in Europe.

There is a version of the Lofoten northern lights experience that looks like the photos — green curtains filling the sky above a red rorbuer, the aurora reflected in a still fjord, the mountains black against a luminous horizon. That version is real. We've seen it several times. What the photos don't show is the three nights of solid cloud cover that preceded it, the midnight drive to a different beach because the sky looked slightly less terrible to the west, and the moment it cleared just enough, just long enough.

Lofoten is one of the best places in Europe to see the northern lights. It’s also one of the cloudiest. Knowing both things before you go is key if you have high aurora hopes.