Kvaløya sits twenty minutes from Tromsø by car, connected by a bridge most people cross on their way somewhere else. Most treat it as a northern lights parking spot in winter, or a stepping stone to Senja or Sommarøy. We visited several times, and eventually stayed a couple of nights. And it turned out to be one of the most extraordinary places we've been in Northern Norway — wild, nearly empty, and completely underrated.

Tromsø, Norway, works perfectly well without a car for a lot of visitors. The city is walkable, the buses are functional, and most of the big tour operators will pick you up from your hotel. If you're spending a few nights chasing the northern lights on guided tours and doing daytime activities in the city, you can get by just fine on foot and public transport.

But if you want to actually explore the region — drive out to fjords on your own schedule, stop where you want, visit Senja (unless you take a day trip), push further toward the Lofoten Islands or the North Cape — a rental car changes the entire trip. Northern Norway is one of the great road trip destinations in the world. A car doesn't just add convenience; it opens up a completely different way of travelling, and absolute freedom.

This guide covers everything you need to know about renting a car in Tromsø, from picking it up at the airport to driving on snow-covered roads in the dark.

Mefjordvær doesn't announce itself. There's no big sign, no tourist infrastructure, no car park full of coaches.

It's a fishing village of about 150 people on the northwest coast of Senja, gathered quietly around a small harbor with the fjord in front and peaks dramatically rising behind. Actually, it’s technically a settlement belonging to Senjahopen.

And right at the water's edge, where the old brygge once stood, is Mefjord Brygge — a resort that has grown up organically around the village.

Tromsø isn't one place to stay — it's five, and the one you pick changes the trip. A central hotel on Tromsøya means walking to everything, but a cabin on Kvaløya means darker skies and a completely different pace. Tromsdalen puts you next to the Arctic Cathedral with a quieter feel than the city. Håkøya Island offers a level of seclusion that's hard to find that close to an airport. And further out — Sommarøy, Malangen, Lyngen — it’s a whole different universe.

This guide covers all of them, with our personal picks at every price point. For aurora-specific recommendations, see our dedicated best hotels in Tromsø for the northern lights guide.

Tranøya is barely a kilometre across. It sits in a quiet bay just off the southern coast of Senja, reachable only by boat, and has been home to Vikings, vicars, and a Copenhagen socialite who followed a young theologian to the Arctic.

Today it's run by two sisters under the name Senja Moments, and it’s one of the most quietly remarkable places to stay in Northern Norway.

Wenche came to pick us up from the shore in her motorboat on a moody, rainy day, which made the whole place even more atmospheric.

Senja has no shortage of dramatic places to sleep, some on par with what you could find in the Lofoten.

But finding a place that puts you right where you want to be — with good food a few steps away, the island's most iconic hikes within reach, and a host who actually grew up here — that's a different thing.

Yttersia Base in Skaland (with adjacent restaurant Nordisk Bris) is that place. We took time to explore the area, appreciated the good night’s rest and delicious meal after hiking, and left with a list of reasons to come back.

There’s passion behind the hotel and restaurant, and this is exactly the type of place we enjoy and happily recommend.

We came to Tromsø for the first time in winter 2009. Since then, the city has changed quiiite a bit. It’s now a true Arctic capital, with a true capital offering, which is surprising at this latitude (thanks, Gulf Stream!). However, most visitors go on a northern lights tour, take the cable car, buy a couple of souvenirs and leave without really exploring Tromsø and its majestic surroundings. This guide of things to see in Tromsø is for the other kind of trip.

Norway's second largest island sits two hours from Tromsø and holds scenery that makes Lofoten look like it has competition. And trust us, the bar is high. Senja's western coast is where the Arctic Ocean meets near-vertical mountain faces, where fishing villages cling to inlets the road barely reaches, and where the beaches look photoshopped even when you're standing on them. The problem — if it is one — is that driving it yourself means watching the road instead of the view. Senja's scenic route is narrow, winding, and entirely worth your full attention on the landscape side of the windscreen. We took Unique Norway's small-group day tour with local guide Henrik, and what follows is what that's like.

Tromsø's hotel scene is dominated almost entirely by chains. Scandic, Radisson, Clarion — if you've looked at where to stay in the city, you've scrolled through a lot of familiar names. Villa Havblikk is different. The owner found a 1917 Norwegian wooden villa in poor condition, bought it, and rebuilt it from the ground up — modern comforts throughout, but vintage decor and furniture that give a lot of character to the place. It sits directly across the Tromsø bridge from the city center in Tromsdalen, near the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, with fjord views and a bar that locals enjoy. We spent time here and came away with a clear opinion on who it's right for.

We've spent a lot of time in Norway across different seasons — Lofoten and Alta in fall chasing the aurora, hiking near Ålesund, dogsledding in Tromsø and snowmobiling in Svalbard in winter, exploring the fjords in summer — and the one thing that's been consistent is how quickly conditions can change and how far from the nearest hospital some of the best parts of the country actually are.

Norwegian mountain rescue is world-class. Norwegian hospital bills, for those who aren't covered, are not cheap.

This guide covers what travel insurance for Norway actually needs to do, what activities require specific coverage, what to watch out for if you assume your existing policy already handles it, and an exclusive discount for our readers with Heymondo.

Nuuk offers more tours than most visitors expect. The fjord system surrounding the capital — Nuup Kangerlua, the second-largest in the world — is the main event, and getting out on the water is what most people remember longest (in our opinion, it’s also spectacular from the top of nearby mountains). Add guided city walks that give the colonial quarter and the Greenland National Museum genuine depth, northern lights excursions in winter, and a solid selection available on the major booking platforms, and Nuuk turns out to be one of the more tour-rich destinations in Greenland. This guide covers everything bookable, how to do it, and what to expect in one of our favorite Arctic cities.

Ilulissat has a small but focused tour offering — which suits the destination. The town is compact, the Icefjord is the main event, and the best experiences here are the ones that get you on the water or into the landscape rather than in a bus. Most of what's worth doing is booked directly with local operators rather than through the big international platforms, and this guide covers exactly what exists, how to book it, and what to expect based on our own experience.

Ilulissat has roughly a dozen hotels, guesthouses, and self-catering cabins for a town of 4,500 people. We've stayed here ourselves — at Cabin Jomsborg, a self-catering cabin sitting ten meters from the water, which turned out to be one of the best accommodation decisions we've made anywhere.

Every property in this guide has icefjord or Disko Bay views in some form. In a town built above a UNESCO World Heritage glacier, there is no such thing as a bad location — only different ways to experience it.

Most people come to Lofoten for the scenery and leave surprised by how much there is to actually do in it. Hiking gets most of the attention — and we've written a full hiking guide in Lofoten if that's your priority — but the activities here go well beyond trails. Whale watching in the Arctic dark. Kayaking under the midnight sun. Sea eagles dropping from altitude to snatch fish from the surface beside your boat. A fishing village frozen somewhere between 1890 and now. The Northern Lights over the harbor.

This is everything worth doing in Lofoten beyond the hikes, with honest notes on what each experience is actually like and when to go for it.

So, put on your hiking shoes and follow us on our favorite trails!

A lot of people associate Iceland with winter — northern lights, frozen landscapes, the darkness. We've been to Iceland in every season, and loved each one of them. Iceland in summer is a completely different country than in winter, and in a lot of ways a more surprising one.

The interior opens up. Roads that are impassable for eight months of the year become accessible. Puffins arrive. Whales move closer to shore. The sun barely sets, which messes with your sleep and your sense of time in the best possible way. And, if you know where to go, you can escape the crowds. We won’t sugarcoat it, though: popular highlights will be busy (explore our alternatives to Iceland’s main tourist spots here).

This is the summer Iceland most guides skip: the highland interior, the things that only exist between June and August, and what the weather is actually going to do to your plans.

We've driven Iceland three times — twice in fall, once in winter — and every time we've covered a version of the same stretch: Reykjavík east along the south coast to Höfn, with various detours depending on the season and what we had time for. We haven't done the full Ring Road. The north and east of the island are on our list, and we'll be honest about that rather than paste in itinerary days we haven't actually driven.

What we have done, thoroughly and repeatedly, is the section that most people mean when they say "Iceland road trip": the south coast to the glacier lagoon, with additions to the Reykjanes Peninsula, the Golden Circle, Hvalfjörður, and Snæfellsnes when time allows. That's the trip this guide is built around.

One more thing upfront: this self-drive tour is entirely doable in a regular car. You don't need a 4x4 for the route described here. More on that below — and it changes the budget and logistics considerably.

We've been to Iceland three times — in September, October and February — doing the kind of things that make travel insurance less of an afterthought and more of a genuine necessity. Driving remote roads in the dark chasing the northern lights, hiking across lava fields and glaciers, navigating weather that changes faster than any forecast predicted.

Iceland is small but mighty. It's one of the most geographically dramatic countries on earth, and a lot of what makes it worth visiting — the interior highlands, the glacier lagoons, the black sand beaches — is also genuinely remote. The nearest hospital to some of the places we've been is a long drive or a helicopter ride away.

That changes the insurance conversation.

We modified hiking plans twice on our last trip to the Faroe Islands because of wind. Not rain — wind. The trail was fine, the visibility was fine, but the gusts at the cliff edge were the kind that make you reconsider your absence of vertigo. We sat it out in the car, ate some dry fish and tried again. We had a plan B. And a plan C. That, more than anything else, is what hiking the Faroe Islands is actually like. Sure, it’s not as cold or crazy as neighboring Iceland, but Atlantic moody weather is real.

If you can work with that — stay flexible, check the weather obsessively, and genuinely enjoy the possibility that your plans will change — then the Faroes offer some of the best hiking in the North Atlantic. Accessible trails. Dramatic coastal scenery on almost every route. Elevation that rewards without making you cry (hello, Lofoten). And a scale that means you can do a couple of hikes in a day if the conditions cooperate.

What follows is our island-by-island breakdown of the hikes in the Faroe Islands we'd actually recommend — with the real distances, the current fee situation, and the ferry logistics.

The Faroe Islands have fewer hotels than almost anywhere else in the North Atlantic — and that's part of what makes staying here feel special. You're not choosing between interchangeable chains. You're choosing between a harbor-front hotel in the old capital, a turf-roofed guesthouse in a village of twelve people, or a cottage perched above a waterfall that drops straight into the ocean. The accommodation is part of the experience in a way it rarely is anywhere else, and we love that.

The flip side: options fill up fast, especially in summer. The islands see a lot of visitors for their size, and the best Faroe Islands hotels — particularly anything outside Tórshavn — often book out weeks or months in advance. Read this guide, decide where you want to be, and book early.

December in Rovaniemi is one of the most atmospheric things you can do in Europe. Snow so deep it swallows fence posts. Darkness that falls at 2pm and stays until 10am. Reindeer moving in slow single file through the forest. The northern lights ripping green across a sky you've never seen that dark. And a silence — an actual silence — that you feel in your chest.

The problem is that the internet has convinced most people that Christmas in Lapland means one specific thing: elves, a man in a red suit, and a theme park experience that costs a fortune and delivers considerably less magic than the landscape sitting five minutes outside it.

We're not here to tell you what to do. But we are here to be honest about what you're actually booking when you book "Christmas in Rovaniemi" — and what December in Finnish Lapland looks like when you strip the commercial layer back.