Most people come to Lofoten for the scenery and leave surprised by how much there is to actually do in it. Hiking gets most of the attention — and we've written a full hiking guide in Lofoten if that's your priority — but the activities here go well beyond trails. Whale watching in the Arctic dark. Kayaking under the midnight sun. Sea eagles dropping from altitude to snatch fish from the surface beside your boat. A fishing village frozen somewhere between 1890 and now. The Northern Lights over the harbor.

This is everything worth doing in Lofoten beyond the hikes, with honest notes on what each experience is actually like and when to go for it.

So, put on your hiking shoes and follow us on our favorite trails!

Barceloneta is fine. It's also where roughly four million people go every summer to share a towel-sized patch of sand and a view of someone's discarded Aperol Spritz cup. For everyone else — the people who want actual beach, actual quiet, and an actual reason to leave the city — the answer is a train ride south, a coastal drive north, or a commitment to the Costa Brava.

We live on the Garraf coast, right outside Sitges, so this isn't a list assembled from a search engine. These are the hotels we'd actually recommend to someone who asked us in person — organized around the same coastline we covered in our hidden beaches near Barcelona guide, so if you haven't decided which beach you want yet, that's the place to start.

Portugal does boutique hotels exceptionally well, and the reason is mostly architectural. There are centuries of convents, palaces, olive oil mills, quintas, and fishermen's houses to work with — buildings that already have bones and history and character built in. Personally, we prefer hotels with character to big, impersonal chains. If you’re like us, Portugal will be heaven for you! Indeed, the best boutique hotels in Portugal tend to be conversions: a former palace on a Lisbon hilltop, a 16th-century olive mill inside Évora's city walls, a clifftop estate in the Alentejo redesigned by an architect who understood and respected what was already there.

What follows is our region-by-region guide to the best boutique stays across Portugal — from the capital to the wild Atlantic coast. Where we have a full regional guide, we link to it rather than repeating ourselves. Where we don't, we go deeper.

The Algarve everyone knows — the golden sea stacks, the crowded summer beaches, the all-inclusive resorts — is real. But it's a small part of a region that has cork oak forests, protected Atlantic coastline, Moorish architecture, wetland nature reserves, and some of the most characterful small hotels in Portugal.

The accommodation on this list exists across all of it. The best version of an Algarve trip (in our humble opinion) usually combines at least two of these areas: a few days in the backcountry west, a few days in the east near Tavira, and as much time as possible on the beaches in between.

Most people visit Sintra as a day trip from Lisbon. We get it — it's only 40 minutes by train, the palaces are right there, and the Instagram shots basically take themselves. But if you leave when the last bus goes, you miss what Sintra actually is.

Stay overnight and you get the village after the tour groups have gone. Cobblestone streets with no one on them. The fog rolling in off the Serra de Sintra as the light fades. The Pena Palace turning a deep orange in the last hour of sun. And, if you venture towards the sea, you’ll find sweeping ocean views all to yourself. A completely different place from the one 20,000 day-trippers saw.

The other thing nobody tells you: Sintra has some of the most characterful boutique accommodation in all of Portugal. Converted manor houses on century-old estates. Cliff-top guesthouses with rooms named after the Atlantic light. Former town halls turned into seven-suite hotels. The options are unique, and unlike Lisbon, they haven't been swallowed up by big chains yet.

Here's where to stay in Sintra, broken down by area.

The Alentejo is the kind of region that people stumble into without much of a plan and end up rearranging their whole trip around. Cork trees, bone-white hilltop villages, vineyards that stretch to the horizon. Pair it with the Costa Vicentina — the wild, protected coastline that runs south toward the Algarve — and you've got one of the most underrated stretches of Portugal. We absolutely fell in love with it!

The hotels tend to match the landscape. Converted farmhouses on 300-year-old estates. Low-slung whitewashed houses built into the Alentejo plain. Rural guesthouses where breakfast is local cheese, tomatoes, and bread still warm from the oven. Finding the right hotel in the Alentejo or along Costa Vicentina often means the whole trip falls into place around it.

We've split this guide by region, because the Alentejo interior and the coast are different trips (but are ideal when combined).

Portugal is one of those countries where the accommodation itself becomes part of the trip. You can find a hotel in Portugal that overlooks an Atlantic cliff, wake up to the sound of cork oaks in the Alentejo, or stumble into a surf lodge where the salt air never leaves. And you can do most of it without paying five-star prices — if you know where to look.

There are a lot of Portugal guides out there, but they all mention the same tourist spots. What follows is our by-region breakdown of where to stay in Portugal — the places we've stayed, the ones we'd book today, and the regions we think are seriously underrated.

Sesimbra is one of the easiest coastal escapes from Lisbon if you rent a car (and where we had the best pastéis de nata) — and also one of the easiest to get wrong.

On paper, it’s simple: beach, cliffs, Atlantic views, a locals’ favorite. In reality, some “sea view” stays barely glimpse the water, some central locations get noisy in summer, and the best-value places are often just slightly removed from the promenade.

This guide is strict on purpose. Every place listed below is:

• a hotel, pousada, apartment, or alojamento local

• chosen because the sea is genuinely part of the experience

Not everyone flying into Lisbon wants Lisbon.

Some people land, pick up a rental car, and drive straight toward the ocean —looking for cliffs, space, silence, and a hotel room where the sea isn’t a suggestion but the whole point. If that’s you (welcome to the club!), good news: you don’t need to go far, and you definitely don’t need a resort bracelet.

So, if you big windows over nightlife and landscapes over lobby bars, keep reading and discover some of our favorites hotels with sea views near Lisbon.

Oh, and a Portugal travel guidebook is worth packing, even if our tips are fab!

There’s a stretch of Portugal’s coast where everything slows down — except the waves. Between Nazaré’s cliff-top drama and Ericeira’s surfer charm, the Central Coast is one of those places that still feels wild, real, and deeply local.

We based ourselves in Nazaré, followed the salty wind south, and came back with a list of stays we’d happily move into. Dive (or surf) into our selection of accommodation in this little — but mighty — corner of Portugal!

There's a version of hiking in Lofoten that looks great on Instagram — dramatic peaks, mirror-flat fjords, golden midnight light. That version is real, and believe us: hiking rarely gets more spectacular or “grammable” than this. What Instagram leaves out is the sideways rain at the trailhead, the mud that swallows your boot to the ankle, and the summit fog that rolls in the moment you reach the top.

We love it anyway. Hiking the Lofoten Islands is one of the most rewarding things we've done anywhere, and we keep going back. These are the trails we've actually done, with notes on what the conditions are really like — not what they look like in the best-case photo.

Some road trips are just… fine. You drive, you snack, you wonder if the destination will be worth it. The Miami to Florida Keys drive? Whole different story. It's sunshine on the dashboard, water on both sides, and has that slow, sweet shift from city buzz to island time.

On this trip, we started in Miami's art splashes and salsa-beat sidewalks, rolled past gator country in the Big Cypress National Preserve, and wound our way over the Overseas Highway — each mile taking us closer to turquoise water, conch fritters, and those sunsets Key West locals swear by.

You'll cross 42 bridges, possibly spot manatees from your car window, and end up watching the sun melt into the Gulf of Mexico — maybe with a mojito in hand! Here's everything you need to know: the route, the stops, the hidden gems, and why this might just become your new favorite escape.

Wild calas, nudist escapes, pine forests, and soft golden sand — all under 50km from the city.

Everyone’s heard of Barceloneta beach, in Barcelona. Too many people, in our opinion. But Barcelona’s coast hides dozens of lesser-known beaches you can reach by train, bus, or rental car — with fewer crowds, better views, and actual space to stretch out your towel.

Whether you want a quick escape or a secret beach day, here’s our pick of the best hidden beaches less than 50km from Barcelona. We’ve split them by direction — south and north — plus a few worth the extra distance. ¿Vamos?

Costa Rica isn’t just a place where nature happens to be beautiful. It’s a country that made a conscious decision, decades ago, to protect what it had — and then built its tourism model around that choice.

Long before “eco-friendly” became a marketing label, Costa Rica was already experimenting, failing, adapting, and trying again. Today, more than a quarter of the country is protected land, wildlife corridors connect ecosystems, and tourism revenue directly funds conservation. It’s an absolute paradise for nature addicts.

If you’re wondering what ecotourism in Costa Rica actually looks like — beyond slogans and leaf icons — this guide breaks it down, clearly and realistically.

Sure, you’ve seen the photos: turquoise coves in Formentera, impossibly blue beaches in Sardinia, rugged cliffs hugging the Costa Brava. These Mediterranean icons are no secret — and in July or August, they can feel more like open-air festivals than peaceful getaways. Sure, we’re all about Arctic destinations, but we love a good Mediterranean beach too!

And here’s the thing: even the busiest places have quiet corners. You just need to know where to look.

After years of exploring these coastlines (and ducking the crowds like pros), we’ve put together our favorite off-the-beaten-path spots — the secret beaches, small-town stays, wild hikes, and local food joints that still make us feel like we’ve discovered something new.

If you want sun, salt, and (some) space to breathe — this is your summer guide.

Everyone’s heard of Algarve’s golden sands and dramatic cliffs. But here’s the secret: Portugal’s wildest, quietest, most soul-restoring beaches aren’t in the brochures.

From the windy wilds of the Alentejo to the moody cliffs north of Lisbon, here are 10 spots where the Atlantic still roars and the Wi-Fi still sucks (in a good way). Swam in their icy Atlantic waters (check local advice for currents). Got lost on dusty trails. Ate delicious fish along the way.

These aren’t polished. They’re not trendy. They’re not all swimmable — head to Algarve for calmer waters. They’re wild, raw, and totally worth the detour. And yuou’ll definitely need a rental car.

Here are 10 of our favorite underrated beaches in Portugal — the ones we almost didn’t want to share. These are the “praias” we tell our closest friends about — and now, you!

Imagine a place where rainbow flags dance in the Mediterranean breeze, where cobblestone streets lead to hidden calas and iconic beaches, and where the spirit of love and acceptance is palpable in the warm welcome of the locals.

Benvinguts a Sitges, the ultimate destination for LGBTQ+ pride celebrations and a magical place we’re blessed to call home!

Nestled on the stunning Garraf coast, near Barcelona, this postcard-perfect town offers so much more than sol y playa; it’s a vibrant haven of inclusivity and joy. ¿Nos acompañas?

Spoiler alert: You won’t find Mykonos or Ibiza here. This is a deeply biased, highly personal list of European beaches we’ve actually been to — and loved enough to forget our towels (and sometimes swimsuit) for. And don’t expect just sea, sun and sand! From lava-black shores in Iceland to dreamy coves in Sardinia, here’s where to go if you’re looking for irresistible landscapes and sweet solitude (well, at least off season).

When we first started exploring Portugal highlights, we thought we knew what to expect: the picturesque tram of Lisbon, the amazing Sintra, the beaches of the Algarve, and, of course, a pasteis de nata or two.

But trust us — Portugal has so much more to offer when you veer away from the typical tourist hotspots. It’s these hidden gems, these tucked-away villages and wild stretches of coast, that really made us fall in love with this place.

If you want to discover Portugal like we did, here are 5 places in Portugal off the beaten path.

Spoiler alert: It’s impossible to eat just a pasteis de nata or two. There’s a reason why they sell them in tubes!

Who better to share the best of Sitges than the locals? We’ve partnered with @TheGuideSitges, a great go-to resource for all things Sitges, to bring you their top tips. From hidden spots to iconic events, here’s everything you need to know — straight from the experts.

Although increasingly blighted by mass day tourism which sees large tour groups doing hit-and-runs on the main sites, Sitges retains many places off the beaten track for discovering unforgettable corners that you would only find if you knew where to look. That’s what this guide is all about.

Here’s a rundown of some experiences that not everyone will get to know about, gathered specifically for readers of Penguin Trampoline