Tromsø, Norway, works perfectly well without a car for a lot of visitors. The city is walkable, the buses are functional, and most of the big tour operators will pick you up from your hotel. If you're spending a few nights chasing the northern lights on guided tours and doing daytime activities in the city, you can get by just fine on foot and public transport.

But if you want to actually explore the region — drive out to fjords on your own schedule, stop where you want, visit Senja (unless you take a day trip), push further toward the Lofoten Islands or the North Cape — a rental car changes the entire trip. Northern Norway is one of the great road trip destinations in the world. A car doesn't just add convenience; it opens up a completely different way of travelling, and absolute freedom.

This guide covers everything you need to know about renting a car in Tromsø, from picking it up at the airport to driving on snow-covered roads in the dark.

Tromsø has become almost synonymous with the northern lights. It sits at 69.6°N, deep inside the auroral oval, with fjords and mountains in every direction and more tour operators than anywhere else in Northern Norway. Every winter, tens of thousands of people fly in with one mission (or shall I say, obsession). Some get lucky on their first night. Others spend a week chasing gaps in the cloud cover. Most land somewhere in between.

We've been to Tromsø more than once — summer and winter — and the honest answer to "is Tromsø good for northern lights?" is: yes, with some caveats you should know before booking anything. This guide to the northern lights in Tromsø tells you when to come, where to go when the sky clears, and how to maximize the nights you have.

Mefjordvær doesn't announce itself. There's no big sign, no tourist infrastructure, no car park full of coaches.

It's a fishing village of about 150 people on the northwest coast of Senja, gathered quietly around a small harbor with the fjord in front and peaks dramatically rising behind. Actually, it’s technically a settlement belonging to Senjahopen.

And right at the water's edge, where the old brygge once stood, is Mefjord Brygge — a resort that has grown up organically around the village.

Tromsø isn't one place to stay — it's five, and the one you pick changes the trip. A central hotel on Tromsøya means walking to everything, but a cabin on Kvaløya means darker skies and a completely different pace. Tromsdalen puts you next to the Arctic Cathedral with a quieter feel than the city. Håkøya Island offers a level of seclusion that's hard to find that close to an airport. And further out — Sommarøy, Malangen, Lyngen — it’s a whole different universe.

This guide covers all of them, with our personal picks at every price point. For aurora-specific recommendations, see our dedicated best hotels in Tromsø for the northern lights guide.

Tranøya is barely a kilometre across. It sits in a quiet bay just off the southern coast of Senja, reachable only by boat, and has been home to Vikings, vicars, and a Copenhagen socialite who followed a young theologian to the Arctic.

Today it's run by two sisters under the name Senja Moments, and it’s one of the most quietly remarkable places to stay in Northern Norway.

Wenche came to pick us up from the shore in her motorboat on a moody, rainy day, which made the whole place even more atmospheric.

Senja has no shortage of dramatic places to sleep, some on par with what you could find in the Lofoten.

But finding a place that puts you right where you want to be — with good food a few steps away, the island's most iconic hikes within reach, and a host who actually grew up here — that's a different thing.

Yttersia Base in Skaland (with adjacent restaurant Nordisk Bris) is that place. We took time to explore the area, appreciated the good night’s rest and delicious meal after hiking, and left with a list of reasons to come back.

There’s passion behind the hotel and restaurant, and this is exactly the type of place we enjoy and happily recommend.

We came to Tromsø for the first time in winter 2009. Since then, the city has changed quiiite a bit. It’s now a true Arctic capital, with a true capital offering, which is surprising at this latitude (thanks, Gulf Stream!). However, most visitors go on a northern lights tour, take the cable car, buy a couple of souvenirs and leave without really exploring Tromsø and its majestic surroundings. This guide of things to see in Tromsø is for the other kind of trip.

Norway's second largest island sits two hours from Tromsø and holds scenery that makes Lofoten look like it has competition. And trust us, the bar is high. Senja's western coast is where the Arctic Ocean meets near-vertical mountain faces, where fishing villages cling to inlets the road barely reaches, and where the beaches look photoshopped even when you're standing on them. The problem — if it is one — is that driving it yourself means watching the road instead of the view. Senja's scenic route is narrow, winding, and entirely worth your full attention on the landscape side of the windscreen. We took Unique Norway's small-group day tour with local guide Henrik, and what follows is what that's like.

Tromsø's hotel scene is dominated almost entirely by chains. Scandic, Radisson, Clarion — if you've looked at where to stay in the city, you've scrolled through a lot of familiar names. Villa Havblikk is different. The owner found a 1917 Norwegian wooden villa in poor condition, bought it, and rebuilt it from the ground up — modern comforts throughout, but vintage decor and furniture that give a lot of character to the place. It sits directly across the Tromsø bridge from the city center in Tromsdalen, near the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, with fjord views and a bar that locals enjoy. We spent time here and came away with a clear opinion on who it's right for.

We've spent a lot of time in Norway across different seasons — Lofoten and Alta in fall chasing the aurora, hiking near Ålesund, dogsledding in Tromsø and snowmobiling in Svalbard in winter, exploring the fjords in summer — and the one thing that's been consistent is how quickly conditions can change and how far from the nearest hospital some of the best parts of the country actually are.

Norwegian mountain rescue is world-class. Norwegian hospital bills, for those who aren't covered, are not cheap.

This guide covers what travel insurance for Norway actually needs to do, what activities require specific coverage, what to watch out for if you assume your existing policy already handles it, and an exclusive discount for our readers with Heymondo.

Nuuk offers more tours than most visitors expect. The fjord system surrounding the capital — Nuup Kangerlua, the second-largest in the world — is the main event, and getting out on the water is what most people remember longest (in our opinion, it’s also spectacular from the top of nearby mountains). Add guided city walks that give the colonial quarter and the Greenland National Museum genuine depth, northern lights excursions in winter, and a solid selection available on the major booking platforms, and Nuuk turns out to be one of the more tour-rich destinations in Greenland. This guide covers everything bookable, how to do it, and what to expect in one of our favorite Arctic cities.

Ilulissat has a small but focused tour offering — which suits the destination. The town is compact, the Icefjord is the main event, and the best experiences here are the ones that get you on the water or into the landscape rather than in a bus. Most of what's worth doing is booked directly with local operators rather than through the big international platforms, and this guide covers exactly what exists, how to book it, and what to expect based on our own experience.

Ilulissat has roughly a dozen hotels, guesthouses, and self-catering cabins for a town of 4,500 people. We've stayed here ourselves — at Cabin Jomsborg, a self-catering cabin sitting ten meters from the water, which turned out to be one of the best accommodation decisions we've made anywhere.

Every property in this guide has icefjord or Disko Bay views in some form. In a town built above a UNESCO World Heritage glacier, there is no such thing as a bad location — only different ways to experience it.

We've been to Iceland three times — in September, October and February — doing the kind of things that make travel insurance less of an afterthought and more of a genuine necessity. Driving remote roads in the dark chasing the northern lights, hiking across lava fields and glaciers, navigating weather that changes faster than any forecast predicted.

Iceland is small but mighty. It's one of the most geographically dramatic countries on earth, and a lot of what makes it worth visiting — the interior highlands, the glacier lagoons, the black sand beaches — is also genuinely remote. The nearest hospital to some of the places we've been is a long drive or a helicopter ride away.

That changes the insurance conversation.

Greenland isn’t a “summer vs winter” destination. It’s:

• Ice vs open water
• Midnight sun vs polar night
• Hiking season vs sea ice season
• Ferry running vs ferry closed

We’ve experienced Greenland in spring — ferry between Nuuk and Ilulissat, iceberg-filled waters, long Arctic evenings — and the timing shaped every single part of the trip. And we’ve experienced every season in the Arctic. Here’s how to choose yours.

If you’re planning a trip to Greenland, one of the first real decisions you’ll face is this:

Do you base yourself in Nuuk, or Ilulissat?

They’re both spectacular.
They’re both pretty expensive.
They feel completely different.

And your choice will shape the entire rhythm of your trip.

Spoiler alert: the best answer is usually to combine both.
But let’s break it down properly.

So you want to catch the Northern Lights? Smart move. But here’s the thing — the aurora doesn’t just show up on demand like a Netflix show (or, as a local joked in Alaska, by activating a switch). Timing is (almost) everything. Get it right, add a pinch of luck, and you’ll be under a sky on fire. Get it wrong and… well, you’ll just be staring at some very expensive clouds or, at least, a stunning starry sky.

This guide covers the best months and seasons to see the Northern Lights (in Europe, North America, and even the Southern Hemisphere), plus a few insider tips — and some gear recs — to up your odds...

There aren’t many hotels in Abisko — and that’s exactly why we love it!
You’re staying in the middle of a national park under one of the clearest aurora skies on Earth. No city glow, no chaos, just snow, mountains and open sky.

Keep reading to find your perfect Abisko hotel — we promise you an unforgettable Swedish Lapland experience!

And if you’re here for the aurora, you’ll find our best proven tips, the science, season-by-season breakdowns, and photography settings in our full Northern Lights Hub.

We’ve chased the aurora across every corner of the Arctic — Norway, Sweden, Finland, Greenland, Alaska — and Abisko is the one place where we show up relaxed. Clear skies are simply more common here. Locals from Kiruna drive to Abisko when it's cloudy. Photographers love it. And if you’re tired of stressing about forecasts, this is where you go to calm down and actually enjoy the night.

Rovaniemi is lovely.
It’s iconic.
It’s Santa’s “official” hometown.
It’s also… completely flooded from November to early January.

Families, buses, long lines, sold-out activities, €450 reindeer rides, and prices that make reindeer reconsider their life choices.

If you're dreaming of Christmas magic without the stampede, Scandinavia is full of places that feel just as magical — sometimes more.

We’ve spent winters all over the Arctic — Kiruna, Abisko, Luleå, Alta, Tromsø, Svalbard, and Finnish Lapland (outside Rovaniemi) — and there are SO many places where the Christmas vibes are strong, the Northern Lights are bright, and the prices are (slightly) less terrifying.

And if your kids are begging for Santa, we’ve included a bonus a bit further away… but definitely off the beaten path!

Here are the best Rovaniemi alternatives, and what makes each special.