Brekka Retreat, Hvalfjörður – A Hidden Iceland Getaway with Northern Lights & Fjord Views
Skip the tunnel. Stay in the fjord.
It could be para, para, paradise!
There's a tunnel under Hvalfjörður that most people take without thinking twice. It shaves 42 kilometers off the drive north. Efficient and practical? Sure. And almost certainly the biggest navigational mistake you can make in West Iceland.
Drive around the fjord instead. And if you really want to do it properly, stay somewhere along the fjord.
Out of curiosity, I (Eli) drove around Hvalfjördur 15 years ago on my way to the Snæfellsnes peninsula and still remembered it. Quiet, empty, no tour buses, and cool road signs like “Blindhæð” and “Sheep crossing”. The kind of Icelandic landscape that makes you feel like the country is performing exclusively for you rather than for the forty people in matching rain jackets behind you at Geysir.
And this time, even though Iceland got way more (too?) popular, we still found exactly this: a 30-kilometre fjord flanked by mountains that drop straight into dark water, a sky that does something different every single hour of the day, and a cabin on a hillside that we didn't particularly want to leave: Brekka Retreat & Spa Suites.
Brekka Retreat: The Rok Suite
Coffee with a sunrise view, anyone?
Brekka Retreat sits above Hvalfjörður with a few options for staying: the original Mountain Cabin, perched higher on the hillside for those who want something more rustic, and two newer spa suites — Rok and Blíða — awesome for couples or solo travelers. We stayed in Rok in early March.
The Suite
It's 40 square-meters plus a dedicated sauna room, and the layout is smarter than the square footage suggests. When you walk in, the large windows hit you first — floor-to-ceiling glass framing the fjord, so the mountains and water are just there, sitting in your living room, kitchen and bedroom, all day. The seating area is positioned to face them. The dining table faces them. The queen bed, in a separate sleeping area, faces them. The sauna and hot tub face them. You can even see the views through the wood panels in the shower, while boasting complete privacy. The architect and interior designer certainly did a spectacular job!
The interior is clearly Nordic, as we love, with Iceland touches: a mix of warm wood and black materials to remind you of lava, clean lines, soft textures, nothing cluttered or fussy. Heated floors throughout, which you will appreciate the moment your feet hit the ground at 7am in January. A fully equipped kitchen with a Nespresso machine and lovely cookware. A proper dining area for actual meals and remote work, rather than the sad-laptop-on-bed situation most self-catering falls into. The bathroom is private and well-fitted, with direct access from the sauna for cold showers.
The details are very thoughtful: Blue Lagoon cosmetics lined up in the bathroom, quality linens, candles, and a cosy seating area that invites you to sit down with a book rather than immediately check your phone (do yourself a favor and ditch your phone for an hour or two!).
We took advantage of the kitchen with a view to cook our own Icelandic meals. You can buy fresh fish and humarsúpa at a “fiskbúđ” in Reykjavík or Mosfellsbær on your way to Hvalfjordur. You’ll also find grocery stores and a bakery in Akranes.
Finally, entry is keyless. Elka, the host, gave us clear arrival instructions and remained available at all times during our stay.
Your private spa — Sauna, hot tub & the northern lights
The sauna and hot tub work best understood as a single thing: your own private spa, with an unobstructed view of the fjord.
The sauna is proper Finnish-style — wood-panelled, with a stove loaded with stones, genuinely hot (you can regulate the temperature). Add sauna oils to the ladle before you throw the water — pine, birch, eucalyptus for a pure bliss. What makes Rok's sauna unusual is the window: a large pane of glass facing directly out over the fjord, so you're sitting in the heat watching the water below and the mountains across the way.
The hot tub is just outside on the private terrace, geothermally heated (gotta love Iceland), and positioned so that when you sink into it you're looking at the same view with nothing between you and the fjord at all.
Our favorite thing to do? Sauna until you're properly hot; go out into the cold air — in winter this hits you like a full-body reset; roll in the snow if there is any (there was during our stay), which is either exhilarating or absurd depending on your personality; then back into the hot tub. The contrast between freezing air and warm water is like a high. When that's not enough, duck inside to the cold shower and come back out again. Repeat until you feel 200% relaxed.
In snowstorms, the mountains across the fjord dissolve into grey-white, and the world shrinks to just the tub, the steam, and the sound of snow landing on water. At sunrise, the peaks catch pink light while the fjord stays dark below. Sunsets go sideways — deep orange across the whole western sky. And, if you’re lucky, the northern lights might show up! They did once though the clouds during our stay, and we didn’t even have to leave the cabin.
Hvalfjörður, its wildlife, and the name
Hay-llo horses! View from your bed if you zoom in!
Here's the first thing you need to know about Hvalfjörður: it means Whale Fjord. Here's the second: no one is entirely sure why.
One theory is that the name dates from a time when the waters here were rich with whales, before fish stocks shifted and the herds moved on. Another is that the fjord's shape reminded someone of a whale from above. And then there's the folklore version, as usual in Iceland — an elf woman transformed her human lover into a great red-headed whale who terrorized the coast until a blind pastor outwitted him and drove him inland to die in the lake above Glymur. Icelandic folklore is always… dramatic.
What you'll actually see in the fjord today: harbor seals; white-tailed eagles, if you're lucky — Iceland has a healthy population, and they hunt along the fjord; and Arctic terns. And let’s not forget the oystercatcher, which will actually make sure you don’t. It’s known in Icelandic as tjaldur, with a black-and-white plumage, a (very) long bright-orange bill, and an attitude significantly disproportionate to its size. Although it usually arrives mid-March in Iceland, we spotted plenty in early March. No need to look for it: its piping call is one of those sounds you can’t ignore!
In summer, Icelandic sheep and their lambs drift across the pastures above the water. And year-round, you’ll meet plenty of friendly Iceland horses. You can even spot them from your bed!
Whales are not common in the fjord today, whatever the name might suggest.
However, between November and May, humpback whales and orcas migrate through other Icelandic fjords. You can follow one’s journey through our partner Fahlo — their Whale Bracelet supports marine research and lets you track a real whale’s migrations in the North Atlantic. You can also track other Icelandic animals like dolphins and seals!
💙 🐋 Our readers get 20% off through this link: Track a whale with Fahlo
Penguin Trampoline tip:
In Iceland, travel insurance is a smart idea: volcanic activity, crazy weather changes, ice, etc. We use and recommend HeyMondo — great coverage, and you get 5–15% off if you book through us!
What to do around Hvalfjörður
Sheeeep crossing!
The tunnel took all the through-traffic underground in 1998 and essentially erased the fjord from most people's maps (yay for us!). What that means for you: a 62-kilometer road with almost no one else on it, no tourist infrastructure built for volume, and an easy drive that feels like Iceland forgot to advertise it. There were some patches with snow and ice in winter, but Jake managed like a pro in a standard car. Make sure to drive slowly and carefully at all times! From Brekka you're 50 minutes from Reykjavík (in good weather) and under two hours from the Golden Circle. This is not a remote wilderness outpost by Icelandic standards. It just feels like one.
Hallgrímskirkja: the church that Sense8 fans are looking for
If you watched Sense8 on Netflix (one of my favorite shows ever), you might remember Riley visiting a small, solitary church to sit by the graves of her family. That church is Hallgrímskirkja í Saurbæ, and it's real, and it's here in Hvalfjörður.
It was consecrated in 1957 and dedicated to Hallgrímur Pétursson — the same poet the famous tower church in Reykjavík is named after — who was actually pastor of this parish from 1651 to 1669. He wrote Iceland's most beloved religious work, the 50 Passion Hymns, from here. He was also a leper, which is the kind of biographical detail Iceland just drops casually into its church histories. The stained-glass windows inside are by sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir and are worth the stop on their own.
Even if you've never seen the show, and whatever your beliefs are, stop here. It's harder to leave than you expect.
Hvammsvík hot springs
Eight natural geothermal pools set directly on the shoreline of the fjord, where some pools merge with the North Atlantic at high tide. No chlorine, no tiles, no ambient playlist — just raw nature, warm water, and views that make you question every city break you've ever taken.
We're writing a full dedicated piece on Hvammsvík, so we'll leave it here: it's worth it and slightly underrated compared to other geothermal baths we won’t mention.
Akranes: the lighthouse, the man, and the cat
Most people drive past Akranes. Small fishing town across the bay. Blink and you’ll miss it. Don't!
Down at the harbor there are two lighthouses, and the larger one — Akranesviti, built in 1944 — has been transformed by its keeper, Hilmar Sigvaldason. Hilmar is the kind of person who makes you love Icelanders! He made a cameo in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (another one of my favorites) because someone asked and he said yes, and he has a neighborhood cat (Mandla) that simply decided to show up to work at the lighthouse every day. The cat was eventually featured on Icelandic news in a segment about the country's working cats (yep!), which feels completely correct. Oh, and he has a Facebook page!
Did you know?
The lighthouse has remarkable acoustics — cylindrical, like an amphitheatre, the kind of space where a whisper carries from one end to the other. Besides opening the lighthouse to tourists, Hilmar started inviting musicians to perform and record there. It fits a wider Icelandic tradition: amiina, the chamber-pop group who played and recorded strings with Sigur Rós for years, built their entire Lighthouse Project around intimate concerts in Icelandic lighthouses. We had to test it… and we gave a rather poor performance.
Glymur waterfall (best in summer)
Iceland's second-highest waterfall at 198 metres, reached only on foot via a moderate-to-difficult 4.4-mile hike involving a cave, a river crossing on a log, and at least one moment of genuine self-questioning — before you emerge above the canyon and immediately forget all of it.
Although some hikers try it year-round, it’s safer from June to September only, when the log bridge is in place. As usual in Iceland, always check the weather and don’t try to be a daredevil. It’s ok to turnaround.
The Golden Circle
Under two hours from Brekka is Þingvellir, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet at the surface and where Iceland's first parliament was held in 930 AD. We snorkeled in Silfra, and it was one of the coolest things (literally) we’ve ever done. But we’ll get back to it in another article. The Golden Circle also features Geysir, where Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes and everyone misses it on their camera, and Gullfoss, where the Hvítá River drops thirty-two meters into a canyon and soaks your jacket within thirty seconds of arrival. It’s all easily done in a day from Brekka — though honestly, after a morning in Rok's hot tub, finding the motivation to leave (and see lots of people again) is harder than expected.
🧳 Plan your Iceland adventure
✈️ Find flights — fly into Keflavik for international flights.
🏨 Find a place to stay — aurora igloos, cozy cabins, and hotels we love.
🚗 Compare car rentals — explore the ring road and beyond.
🧭 Heymondo Travel Insurance (5–15% off) — protect yourself (and your camera gear) from Arctic surprises.
🧳 Arctic gear — check our travel essentials on Amazon.
🐾 Fahlo Wildlife Bracelets (20% off) — track a real Arctic animal and stay connected to the north.
FAQ: Brekka Retreat & Hvalfjörður
Is Brekka Retreat worth it?
Yes — particularly the Rok spa suite, which offers a private sauna, geothermal hot tub, and panoramic fjord views in a beautifully designed 40 sqm space. The combination of genuine Nordic luxury and complete privacy makes it one of the best couples' stays we've done in Iceland.
Do you need a 4x4 to reach Brekka Retreat?
No. A standard hire car is fine for the spa suites. The road is unpaved in sections but totally manageable in a regular car.
Can you see the northern lights from Brekka Retreat?
Yes — the private hot tub and sauna terrace face directly over the fjord with no light pollution from nearby buildings. The aurora is visible on clear nights (solar activity allowing) between September and March. The sauna's large window and hot tub also let you watch from inside without getting cold.
How far is Brekka Retreat from Reykjavík?
Around 50 minutes by car (with good weather), driving the scenic fjord road rather than the tunnel. If you take the Hvalfjörður Tunnel, it's quicker — but you’ll miss the entire point.
What is Hvalfjörður famous for?
Its dramatic scenery, the Glymur waterfall (Iceland's second highest), the Hvammsvík geothermal hot springs, and a quiet that's increasingly hard to find in Iceland since the tunnel rerouted all the traffic in 1998. The name means "Whale Fjord," though whales aren't commonly spotted there today.
When is the best time to visit Hvalfjörður?
It's good year-round but for different reasons. Winter (October–March) gives you the best northern lights chances and a snow-dusted fjord that's genuinely spectacular. Summer (June–September) opens up the Glymur waterfall hike and the midnight sun. Shoulder seasons — April/May and September/October — tend to be quieter and a little cheaper.
Is Hvammsvík hot springs near Brekka Retreat?
Yes — about 20 minutes by car along the fjord road (in good weather). It's one of the best geothermal bathing spots in Iceland and worth booking well in advance at hvammsvik.com.
What wildlife can you see in Hvalfjörður?
Harbor seals along the shoreline, oystercatchers (called tjaldur in Icelandic), Arctic terns in summer, and — if you're fortunate — white-tailed eagles hunting over the fjord. Sheep roam the pastures above the water from late spring through summer, and horses are everywhere.
Here is a playlist to soak in the views:
Hvalfjörður is what Iceland used to feel like before the busses found everything else. Brekka is the reason to stay in it rather than just drive through.
Rok is a genuinely beautiful place to sleep — the design, the heated floors, the Nespresso at 7am while you watch the light change on the fjord from the warmth of the seating area. But the real thing is the spa: sauna, hot tub, open air, and the aurora overhead if you're lucky and patient. The silence, the privacy, nobody else looking at the same view. A seal surfacing fifty meters out. The oystercatchers calling from somewhere below. Snow starting to fall while the water underneath stays dark and still.
Fifty minutes from Reykjavík. You'd never know.
Planning a trip to Iceland and other Arctic islands? Check out our guides:
🌋 Iceland Travel Guide — Volcanoes, waterfalls, and the road trip of your geothermal dreams.
🇮🇸 Things to Do in Iceland in Winter — Ice caves, auroras, and all the frozen magic you didn’t know you needed.
🏨 Best Northern Lights Hotels in Iceland — Cozy cabins, glass igloos, and wild skies where the aurora dances right above your bed.
🐴 Horseback riding in Iceland — Learn about the horse culture in Iceland and our experience near Reykjavik.
🔥 Lava Show in Reykjavík — Watch lava melt and solidify right in front of you.
🌊 Faroe Islands Guide — Clifftop hikes, puffins, waterfalls, and the place we chose to unofficially get married.
🐋 Greenland Travel Guide — Icebergs, ferries, and Inuit traditions in the wildest place we’ve ever been.
🧊 Svalbard & Jan Mayen — Polar bears, ghost towns, and next-level Arctic mystery in Norway’s far north.
⛰️ Lofoten Hiking Guide — Dramatic ridges, secret beaches, and cod-drying racks in Arctic Norway.
❄️ Our Ultimate Arctic Travel Guide — How to explore, survive, and avoid becoming a polar bear’s lunch.
✨ Northern Lights for Dummies — How to actually see the aurora (without freezing your butt off or waiting 12 nights in vain).
