Tromsø, Norway, gets treated as a hiking base camp for the Lyngen Alps or Senja, and a lot of visitors never hike anything closer than the cable car queue at Fjellheisen. That's a shame, because the city itself sits between two mountains, backs onto a forested ridge, and is a short drive from an island (Kvaløya) with some of the prettiest and overlooked trails in Northern Norway. This Tromsø hiking guide covers what's walkable from downtown, what's a short drive or bus ride away, and where to go if you want something bigger.

If you live in Southern Europe like us, you’re probably really, really hot right now. So, this summer, go up north!

Most people think of Tromsø, Norway, as a winter destination: northern lights, dog sledding, snow-covered peaks. And yes, that version of the city is real and a bit too crowded for our taste. But summer in Tromsø is different!.

The midnight sun runs from mid-May through late July. That means golden light at midnight, warm enough afternoons to swim (brave souls do, and not just Norwegians), wildflowers on the ridgelines, and an incredible energy in the air. You can hike at 11pm and still have hours of light ahead of you. The beaches — with white sand and turquoise water — fill up with locals who wouldn’t even dream of spending the summer in Spain. Oh, and less tourists!

This is our guide to the best things to do in Tromsø in summer.

Kvaløya sits twenty minutes from Tromsø by car, connected by a bridge most people cross on their way somewhere else. Most treat it as a northern lights parking spot in winter, or a stepping stone to Senja or Sommarøy. We visited several times, and eventually stayed a couple of nights. And it turned out to be one of the most extraordinary places we've been in Northern Norway — wild, nearly empty, and completely underrated.

Tromsø, Norway, works perfectly well without a car for a lot of visitors. The city is walkable, the buses are functional, and most of the big tour operators will pick you up from your hotel. If you're spending a few nights chasing the northern lights on guided tours and doing daytime activities in the city, you can get by just fine on foot and public transport.

But if you want to actually explore the region — drive out to fjords on your own schedule, stop where you want, visit Senja (unless you take a day trip), push further toward the Lofoten Islands or the North Cape — a rental car changes the entire trip. Northern Norway is one of the great road trip destinations in the world. A car doesn't just add convenience; it opens up a completely different way of travelling, and absolute freedom.

This guide covers everything you need to know about renting a car in Tromsø, from picking it up at the airport to driving on snow-covered roads in the dark.

Tromsø has become almost synonymous with the northern lights. It sits at 69.6°N, deep inside the auroral oval, with fjords and mountains in every direction and more tour operators than anywhere else in Northern Norway. Every winter, tens of thousands of people fly in with one mission (or shall I say, obsession). Some get lucky on their first night. Others spend a week chasing gaps in the cloud cover. Most land somewhere in between.

We've been to Tromsø more than once — summer and winter — and the honest answer to "is Tromsø good for northern lights?" is: yes, with some caveats you should know before booking anything. This guide to the northern lights in Tromsø tells you when to come, where to go when the sky clears, and how to maximize the nights you have.

Tromsø isn't one place to stay — it's five, and the one you pick changes the trip. A central hotel on Tromsøya means walking to everything, but a cabin on Kvaløya means darker skies and a completely different pace. Tromsdalen puts you next to the Arctic Cathedral with a quieter feel than the city. Håkøya Island offers a level of seclusion that's hard to find that close to an airport. And further out — Sommarøy, Malangen, Lyngen — it’s a whole different universe.

This guide covers all of them, with our personal picks at every price point. For aurora-specific recommendations, see our dedicated best hotels in Tromsø for the northern lights guide.

We came to Tromsø for the first time in winter 2009. Since then, the city has changed quiiite a bit. It’s now a true Arctic capital, with a true capital offering, which is surprising at this latitude (thanks, Gulf Stream!). However, most visitors go on a northern lights tour, take the cable car, buy a couple of souvenirs and leave without really exploring Tromsø and its majestic surroundings. This guide of things to see in Tromsø is for the other kind of trip.

Norway's second largest island sits two hours from Tromsø and holds scenery that makes Lofoten look like it has competition. And trust us, the bar is high. Senja's western coast is where the Arctic Ocean meets near-vertical mountain faces, where fishing villages cling to inlets the road barely reaches, and where the beaches look photoshopped even when you're standing on them. The problem — if it is one — is that driving it yourself means watching the road instead of the view. Senja's scenic route is narrow, winding, and entirely worth your full attention on the landscape side of the windscreen. We took Unique Norway's small-group day tour with local guide Henrik, and what follows is what that's like.

Tromsø's hotel scene is dominated almost entirely by chains. Scandic, Radisson, Clarion — if you've looked at where to stay in the city, you've scrolled through a lot of familiar names. Villa Havblikk is different. The owner found a 1917 Norwegian wooden villa in poor condition, bought it, and rebuilt it from the ground up — modern comforts throughout, but vintage decor and furniture that give a lot of character to the place. It sits directly across the Tromsø bridge from the city center in Tromsdalen, near the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, with fjord views and a bar that locals enjoy. We spent time here and came away with a clear opinion on who it's right for.