Things to Do in Luleå, Sweden - Winter Escape
Island hopping in Luleå, Sweden
Last update: October 29, 2025
Sweden is always a good idea, no matter where you go.
This time, to satiate our winterlust, we decided to head a little more South than usual and spend a week in Luleå.
The largest city in Swedish Lapland seemed to have it all, with a well-connected airport, snowy landscapes, cozy cafés and restaurants, and, of course, the frozen Bothnian archipelago. It’s a university town with very few tourists — exactly our kind of place!
Ready to travel to Luleå with us?
🧳 Field Notes
When we went: February — peak winter, when the sea freezes solid and daylight stretches just long enough for adventure and fika.
Where we stayed: A tiny red cabin by the frozen archipelago — the kind of place where silence hums and northern lights show off.
How we got around: On foot, by bus, and on ice — literally. You can drive or walk across the frozen sea between islands, or rent skates and a kicksled in town.
Highlights: Island-hoping on the ice track, chasing northern lights, and warming up in saunas so hot you forget it’s –20°C outside.
Mistakes we made: Overestimating the cold — don’t get us wrong, it was cold. Just not the cold we’re used to when we travel to Swedish Lapland.
🗓️ When to see the northern lights in Luleå
The aurora season in Luleå runs from late September to early April, with the best viewing usually between December and February, when nights are longest and skies clearest.
On a calm night, you can often see the lights right from town or by the water — though it’s always better a little outside the glow of streetlights.For photo settings, gear advice, and the best Northern Lights destinations across Scandinavia, check out our full 👉 Northern Lights Hub.
How to get to Luleå
Luleå is easily accessible by air, with the Luleå/Kallax Airport serving as the primary gateway to the region. Several major airlines operate flights to Luleå from Stockholm and other major cities in Sweden. Additionally, you can travel to Luleå by train to enjoy scenic views of the Swedish countryside along the way.
We found a reasonably-priced flight from Barcelona to Stockholm with Vueling, and then a great Black Friday offer for a Stockholm-Luleå flight with Norwegian.
If you’ve been following Penguin Trampoline blog for a while, you probably know that for us, any excuse is good to spend a night in Stockholm!
Lule what?
Luleå is pronounced as "loo-leh-oh". The stress falls on the first syllable, "loo." The "eå" combination is pronounced as a single sound, similar to "eh-oh." That being said, we heard several pronunciations when talking to the locals.
Things to do in Luleå in winter
Island hopping
Luleå is surrounded by an archipelago of over a thousand islands, creating a breathtaking winter landscape. From the city center, walk on the ice to Gråsjälören island and stop for a hot chocolate and waffle served by the Lions Club. If the weather is nice, you’ll see people grilling meat and fish… and some cars parked, as locals love to drive on the frozen sea!
It was close to -20º when we went there, and it’s awesome to see locals enjoying the great outdoors no matter the temperature!
We live in Spain and locals wear a coat and scarf at 17ºC!
From there, you can keep walking along the ice track, and literally hop from one island to another. Check the snow depth before venturing too far!
It’s not something you get to do every day — unless you live in Luleå — and we had an amazing time!
On our way to Gråsjälören
Ice skating or sledding
When the ice is thick enough, the city of Luleå draws an ice track for everyone to enjoy. The track stretches from one harbor to the other and extending out into the Bothnian archipelago all the way to Gråsjälören.
Locals, who in summer have to drive around the bay, can get into town a lot faster on foot or even bike!
The length of the ice track can vary slightly from year to year, but it typically spans approximately 10 kilometers, occasionally extending even farther. Along the route, visitors will encounter strategically placed benches and inviting fireplaces where they can pause to rest and warm up amidst the crisp winter air. Access to the ice track is conveniently available at both the southern and northern harbors, with entrances designed to accommodate wheelchairs and strollers, ensuring accessibility for all.
You can explore the ice track walking, skating or sled kicking.
Ice fishing
You can book an ice fishing tour, or just observe the patient locals trying to catch pike, burbot, perch, roach or salmon. Our favorite cold water fish is the Arctic char! If you’re interested in Nordic gastronomy, don’t miss our article on Arctic Foods.
Did you know?
Luleå is known for its brackish water due to its proximity to the Gulf of Bothnia, an arm of the Baltic Sea. Brackish water is a mix of freshwater and saltwater, resulting in a unique ecosystem that supports a diverse range of flora and fauna.
On the pic: Eli enjoying sledding on the frozen brackish water!
Mushing
While mushing is more developed in the North of Swedish Lapland — check out our article on Kiruna — you’ll find a few dog sledding companies around Luleå.
For outdoor activities like mushing, it’s always a good idea to have travel insurance.
You can get 5% off by booking a travel insurance through us with our partner HeyMondo!
Penguin Trampoline tip:
If you’re not renting a car, you can buy a bus pass at LTT and recharge it. The bus network is excellent, reliable — of course, we’re in Sweden! — and pretty extensive. Plus, they’ll give you adorable heart-shaped chocolates!
Ice breaker cruise
We tried to go on an ice breaker cruise, but unfortunately, it was impossible to book on short notice.
If you book ahead of time, ice breaker experiences are available from Luleå or Piteå and look like a lot of fun!
You even get to float around — in a special suit, of course!
Ice bath and sauna
And for the brave penguins who’d rather swim with no suit, you can try an ice dip! Icebath Luleå offers this experience, followed by a cozy sauna.
We had a sauna in our accommodation, so we did it ourselves, but it might be a good idea to be with locals if it’s your first time.
If there’s no ice pool around, you can always roll in the snow. Just watch out for hidden ice underneath before you jump, right, Eli?
Northern lights
We had booked a rental cabin by a lake in the outskirts of the Luleå city limits, so it was a prime location to watch the northern lights. And we got extremely lucky, with a high KP (minor solar storm) and relatively clear skies 3 nights out of 7!
Plus, it was a lot warmer than what we’re used to when we travel North, so we could stay out of the warmth of the cabin for hours.
Check our dedicated article: Luleå Northern Lights
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Gammelstad Church Town
Step back in time and explore the UNESCO-listed Gammelstad Church Town, a well-preserved medieval church village located just outside of Luleå — a short bus ride if you’re not driving.
Wandering through narrow cobblestone streets lined with quaint red cottages and visiting the stone church dating back to the 15th century is a unique experience — and it’s even more picturesque when covered in snow.
Gammelstad, a true Swedish postcard!
In summer, many cottages are opened for visiting. When we went there, we could visit one, and the lovely lady told us incredible stories of the past!
If you keep walking past Gammelstad, there’s an open air museum called Friluftsmuseet Hägnan. There was not much in winter, but it was lovely to walk around this serene winter wonderland.
What to do in Luleå with bad weather
We got lovely weather all week so we were mostly outdoor, but in case of rain or snow storm, Luleå has a few museums like Norrbottens Museum, Teknikens Hus: and Havremagasinet.
If you get cold walking around, Luleå City Library is a nice stop, with a cozy café and a small souvenir shop.
And speaking of shopping, you’ll find your typical Nordic brands in the city center, plus a few original stores. For souvenirs, your best bet is the tourist center and Konst & Handverk. They sold Sami artifacts and local designer pieces at the time we visited, but the name was different.
Luleå on ice festival
We happened to be in town during Luleå on ice festival, and it was awesome!
We saw mesmerizing ice sculpture exhibitions, an ice skating race — man, they’re fast! — with participants from all over the world, and live demonstrations showcasing activities such as ice hockey, figure skating, and snowboarding.
You can indulge in traditional Swedish cuisine with delicious offerings such as hot mulled wine, hearty stews, and sweet treats like cinnamon buns and gingerbread cookies. Check our article on Arctic Foods for more goodies!
There were also live music performances, interactive workshops and cultural showcases, and the highlight for the little and no so little ones: petting the reindeer!
We even found a LGBTQ stand, and we had a great chat with a lady working at the city hall. She was trying to get us to move to Luleå, and her arguments were hard to resist to!
The ambiance was great, and it was a fantastic opportunity to interact with the welcoming locals.
Where to stay? Accommodations and hotels in Luleå
Luleå region offers accommodation options for all budgets and tastes, from fancy hotels to rustic cabins.
We booked a cabin outside the city for our best shot at seeing the Northern Lights, but it was still near a bus stop going to the city center.
If you’re not renting a car, we would recommend you to do that to get the best of both worlds!
We were just a 20-minutes bus ride to the city center and completely surrounded by nature, right by a frozen lake and minutes away from beautiful forests. It was fun walking across the lake and through the forest to reach the grocery store!
On our way to the grocery store
Obviously, if you have a rental car, we would recommend venturing a little further out to enjoy the true Scandinavian wilderness.
Booking and Airbnb have all kind of options.
Where to eat? Luleå restaurants
For Nordic cuisine, you’ll find fancy restaurants like Bistron along the sea. If you go at night — weather and Kp allowing — you might be in for a northern lights treat!
Not very Nordic, we know, but we really enjoyed Bastard Burgers. Burgers were delicious — you need comfort food at -20º — and the staff was super nice.
For fika time, follow the locals and head to Espresso House, conveniently located by the main bus stop, or cozy Café La Vache. Gotta love the name!
If your accommodation has a kitchen, you’ll find reindeer & moose meat and smoked sausage, salmon, kötbullar and other Swedish goodies at any grocery store.
FAQ — Things to Do in Luleå
When is the best time to visit Luleå?
Winter is when the magic happens — frozen seas, snow-covered forests, and northern lights dancing overhead. December to March is peak season for ice roads, dog sledding, and snowshoeing. Check our guide to know when to see the northern lights
Summer (June to August) flips the script with midnight sun, kayaking, and island-hopping around the Luleå archipelago.
Can you really drive on the sea in Luleå?
Yes, you can! The ice roads connecting the islands are open when the sea freezes solid — usually from January to March. Locals use them like normal highways, but with better views. Always check safety updates before heading out.
Is Luleå a good place to see the northern lights?
Absolutely. It’s one of the best spots in Europe for aurora watching — far enough north, yet with easy access and clear skies. The season runs roughly from September to April — we had 3 nights of activity in a row in Feburary! Head to places like Brändön or Gammelstad for darker skies.
What’s the top thing to do in Luleå in winter?
Dog sledding and snowmobiling top most lists, but don’t skip a night walk on the frozen sea or a sauna session followed by a dip in an ice hole (if you’re brave, but trust us: you’ll feel soooo good afterwards).
And in summer?
Luleå turns into a coastal paradise — think paddleboarding, sailing, and hiking around the archipelago. The old church town of Gammelstad is also beautiful when it’s not buried in snow.
How do you get to Luleå?
There are daily flights from Stockholm (about 1 hour 20 minutes), trains that take around 12 hours, and roads that are surprisingly scenic. If you’re road-tripping through Swedish Lapland, Luleå makes a great stop between Jokkmokk and the coast.
Do people speak English in Luleå?
Yes — almost everyone does or at least understands. Swedes are famously fluent, and locals are friendly (if a bit reserved at first). Just smile and maybe learn “hej” (hi) and “tack” (thanks).
What should I pack for Luleå?
Layers, thermal base wear, and good boots for winter (check our Arctic Packing List). In summer, bring light jackets and mosquito repellent. Don’t forget a headlamp or power bank — you’ll use both more than you think.
Is Luleå expensive?
Sweden isn’t cheap, but Luleå is more affordable than Stockholm or Kiruna. You’ll find cozy cabins, mid-range hotels, and a few splurge-worthy lodges. Eating out costs a bit, but fika (coffee + pastry) is a steal.
Where should I stay in Luleå?
Luleå Village Cabin to have your own place, Clarion Hotel Sense for city comfort, or a cozy cabin in Gammelstad for history buffs. Check the best hotels in Luleå.
Finally, here is our personal playlist to watch the northern lights — but don’t worry if they don’t show up, it also works with any Nordic landscape!
We absolutely loved Luleå — loo-leh-oh — low-key and unpretentious vibe, the friendly locals, and, as always in Scandinavia, the breathtaking landscape.
Easily accessible from anywhere in Europe, it’s one of these under the radar destinations we’d like to keep to ourselves — but we’re happy to share it with our little penguins!
Planning a trip in Swedish Lapland? Explore our guides:
🏨 Hotels in Luleå, Sweden — Modern stays, design retreats, and Arctic cabins under the Northern Lights.
🌌 Luleå Northern Lights — Ice roads, frozen seas, and aurora skies across Swedish Lapland.
🦌 Kiruna in Swedish Lapland — Aurora skies, Sami culture, and the northern edge of cozy.
🏠 Best Hotels in Swedish Lapland — Icehotels, glass igloos, and cozy cabins under the northern lights.
🧊 Kiruna vs. Rovaniemi: Swedish Lapland vs. Finnish Lapland — Two Arctic capitals, one epic showdown.
❄️ Our Ultimate Arctic Travel Guide — How to explore, survive, and avoid becoming a polar bear’s lunch.
✨ Northern Lights for Dummies — How to actually see the aurora (without freezing your butt off or waiting 12 nights in vain).
