Romania Travel Guide: Castles, Carpathians & Wild Encounters
Hiking with our mascot Mac in Piatra Craiului National Park
Being European, I (Eli) grew up hearing about the Romanian revolution. Jake had heard about Dracula Castle and little more.
We both had Romanian colleagues and had tried some delicious Romanian specialities.
So, when Jake found out that the world’s largest bear sanctuary was in Transylvania, he surprised me with a trip!
Our route wound from the Carpathian peaks of Măgura to the mediaeval calm of Sibiu, through foggy Făgăraș roads that refused to show their secrets and Bucharest’s creative chaos.
It’s one of those places where nothing goes exactly to plan — and that’s what makes it unforgettable!
Buckle up (literally, because driving there is… can’t even describe it) and follow us!
🇷🇴 Field Notes
Best time to go: May–early October. Spring brings wildflowers and empty trails; autumn turns the Carpathians gold and foggy. We went early October, and some mountain roads were already closed due to snow.
Book early: Family-run guesthouses in Măgura and Zărnești fill up fast in summer. Mountain cabins near Piatra Craiului (like the amazing A-shaped cabin we stayed at) are limited — reserve at least a couple of months ahead if you want those wild valley views.
Expect prices: €30–90 per night for rural guesthouses, €70-€150 for a private mountain cabin, €80–150 for nice hotels in Bucharest or Sibiu. Romania is still one of Europe’s best-value destinations if you’re not after luxury.
Getting around: Rent a car. Trains are slow, buses unpredictable, and sheep don’t care about timetables. Roads are mostly fine as long as you’re not in a hurry — just watch for potholes, crazy drivers, and the occasional horse cart, flock of sheep, stray dog, cow, or horse.
Packing tip: Hiking shoes, rain gear, and a layer for sudden temperature swings (check our favorite gear for cold weather here if you go in winter). You don’t need any fancy clothes unless you’re planning to visit the fanciest restaurants and clubs in Bucharest. Offline maps are a must — cell service fades fast in the mountains. And yes, bring some cash.
Wildlife reality check: Romania’s famous bears aren’t a myth. You’ll see signs, tracks, maybe one from the car if you’re lucky. We found two scats steps away from our cabin. Never feed or approach them — they’re wild, not Disney.
Mistakes we made: Underestimating the moody October weather. We couldn’t go to Balea Lake due to a snowstorm and the road being closed.
Brasov and Bran Castle (Dracula): The gateway to Transylvania
Don’t forget your garlic to visit Bran Castle!
A postcard-perfect city at the foot of the mountains, Brașov is where Gothic churches meet mountain trails. The pastel facades of the Old Town hide coffee shops, and every alleyway seems to lead to a view. While it’s scenic, we weren’t too impressed. And it felt a bit touristy. You’ll find more authentic restaurants and accommodations outside of Brașov. That said, it’s a convenient hub if you don’t have a rental car, as most tours leave from there.
From here, we drove to Bran Castle, the so-called home of Dracula. It’s very touristy, yet fun to see — but the real magic starts when you leave the crowds behind and follow the winding roads toward Zărnești and Magura.
Măgura & Zărnești: Romania’s Wild Heart
Hiking up the mountains in Piatra Craiului National Park
We booked an awesome A-framed cabin in Măgura, a tiny mountain village scattered across rolling green hills in Piatra Craiului National Park.
Every morning, the local dog would greet us, and fog would drift through the valley. Every evening, cowbells would echo from distant slopes. It’s the kind of silence that fills your head instead of emptying it. We enjoyed our hikes even though the weather was a bit moody (as you would expect in October!).
A few kilometres away, we visited the Liberty Bear Sanctuary — home to rescued bears who once lived in captivity, often in terrible conditions. It’s ethical, humbling, and a reminder that Romania remains one of the last European countries where bears still roam free.
If there’s a place that captures Romania’s soul, this is it — raw, quiet, and full of (furry) life.
Did you know?
The Liberty Bear Sanctuary near Zărnești is home to over 100 rescued bears, most of them saved from captivity in roadside cages or private zoos. It has over 69 hectares of forest, and you can actually watch the bears splash in ponds, nap in trees, and finally live like bears again. We “adopted” Viorel, a meditating bear (true story!)
Sibiu: Eyes that watch you and bridges that lie
Sibiu from the infamous Bridge of Lies
If Brasov is about mountains, Sibiu is about magic in the details. The baroque rooftops are famous for their “eyes” — attic windows that look like sleepy eyelids watching over the city.
We wandered through the old town, walked on the mysterious Bridge of Lies, tasted local delicacies, talked to friendly locals, and let the rhythm of life slow to its Transylvanian tempo. We also visited the great Astra Museum.
Sibiu isn’t a checklist destination; it’s a place that works on you quietly.
Did you know?
Romania has over 150 types of traditional cheese, most of them still handmade in mountain huts called stâne. The most famous is brânză de burduf — a salty sheep’s cheese aged inside tree bark or sheep’s stomach. It’s tangy, creamy, and slightly smoky — the perfect reward after a long hike (ideally with fresh bread and a view of the Carpathians).
The Făgăraș Mountains: When the road disappears
Whatever your beliefs (or non beliefs) are, you’ll enjoy the peaceful surroundings of Sâmbăta de Sus’s Monastery.
We tried to cross the Transfăgărășan Road, often called the most beautiful drive in the world. On the pics, it looks very much like Norway’s Trollstigen, and we wanted to hike to Bâlea Lake.
But the weather had other plans. Fog rolled in like smoke, rain turned to mist, and visibility dropped to almost nothing.
Penguin Trampoline tip:
Romania’s forests are bear country — and the trick is simple: make noise. Talk, sing, clap — just let them know you’re human, not lunch.
No smelly food, no open picnics, no snacks in your backpack overnight.
Also, book travel insurance (get 5 to 15% off with our partner HeyMondo). Because while bears usually mind their own business, Romanian mountain roads definitely don’t. .
So we stopped. We visited other magical places, like Sâmbăta de Sus’s Monastery and Făgăraş Castle. We ate delicious Covrigi .
We cozied up in our wooden cabin in Cârțișoara, enjoyed hot soup, and watched the clouds dance over invisible peaks. Sometimes the best travel moments happen when the road quite literally disappears.
Bucharest: Chaotic but cool!
The Stairs on Happiness in Cotroceni, a splash of colors on a cloudy morning!
Back in Bucharest, we traded mountain air for café chatter. The city buzzes — electric, contradictory, alive. We stayed at the central and historic Capitol Hotel.
Belle Époque architecture leans against communist concrete, while murals, indie galleries, and vintage bars fill the gaps in between. The Old Town is packed with tourists, while other neighbourhoods, like Cotroceni, are quietly waiting to be explored.
It’s a city of constant reinvention; it has come a long way and still has a long way to go, and somehow, it kind of works.
FAQ: Planning your Romania adventure 🇷🇴
Is Romania safe for travellers?
Yes — very. Romania is one of Europe’s safest and friendliest countries. Crime is rare outside big cities, and most people are happy to help. Just watch for reckless drivers and crossing stray dogs, horses, sheep, cows… And be bear-aware!
What’s the best time to visit Romania?
Spring (May–June) for wildflowers and mild weather; autumn (September–October) for golden forests and fewer tourists. Summer is beautiful but busy in tourist areas — and sometimes bear-y hot.
Do you need a car to explore?
Not technically, but a rental car car helps. Trains are slow, buses unpredictable, and remote villages like Magura are best reached on your own wheels.
Can you see bears in Romania?
Yes — safely, if you know where to go. Visit the Liberty Bear Sanctuary near Zărnești, or join a guided wildlife tour. Never feed or approach wild bears.
Is Romania expensive?
No, but it was more expensive than we expected. Yet, it’s still one of Europe’s best-value destinations, especially off the beaten path. You can eat well, stay in family guesthouses, and road-trip across the country without breaking the bank.
What are the top things to do in Romania?
Wander medieval towns like Brasov and Sibiu, hike in the Carpathians, visit castles (yes, even Dracula’s), explore Bucharest’s creative chaos, and enjoy the local cuisine.
Where should I stay in Romania?
For nature — Magura, Zărnești or at the foothills of the Făgăraș mountains. For culture — Sibiu or Brasov. For city life — Bucharest.
Here is a playlist to get in the Romanian spirit (beyond No ma no ma yei):
Romania wasn’t what we expected — it was better! It was wilder, warmer, and more human than the headlines make it sound. Oh, and the food was delicious! From fog-drenched trails to rooftop cities that seem to watch you back, this country still feels beautifully untouched by the rush on most of the continent.
We came for the wildnerness and stayed for the kindness, the quiet, and just some of the chaos that somehow felt like home, as it’s part of the EU. And if there’s one thing we learned: once you’ve heard the Carpathians breathe, you’ll want to listen again.
Dreaming of visitin Romania? Check our guides!
🐻 Piatra Craiului National Park: Magura & Zărnești — Fog, forests, and the friendliest village dogs.
🏰 Brasov & Beyond — Castles, cobblestones, and just enough Dracula.
👁️ Sibiu: The City That Watches You — Old rooftops, fresh cheese, and easy charm (coming soon).
⛰️ The Făgăraș Mountains — The day the road disappeared and it was still perfect (coming soon).
🏙️ Bucharest — Beautiful chaos, creative energy, and endless coffee (coming soon).
🛏️ Where to Stay in Romania — Our favourite hotels, cabins, and guesthouses (coming soon).
💡 What Surprised Us About Romania — 10 things we didn’t expect (including how good the food is) (coming soon).
More soon — once we’ve defrosted our hiking boots and stopped smelling faintly of wood smoke.
