Brașov & Beyond — Castles, Cobblestones, and Just Enough Dracula
Bran Castle should be visited on a rainy day! Look at this ambiance!
The guidebooks all say the same thing: Start in Brașov.
But here is the thing: we always prefer off-the-beaten path destinations, and Brașov is pretty touristy.
So, we preferred to stay near Zărnești. We were enchanted by foggy valleys and curious cows, but it was pouring rain, so no hike that day. We’d figured we’d swing through the region’s biggest name for the classics — Old Town charm, Dracula’s Castle, and whatever Transylvanian mystery we could cram into a day trip.
Spoiler: We weren’t blown away by Brașov. But that’s not really the point of this story.
Because around the edges of this tourist hotspot, the magic lingers — in weather-worn monasteries, A-frame cabins that vanish into clouds, and backroads that look like they’ve never heard of GPS.
This is Brașov & Beyond. A mini adventure through myth, fog, and a surprising amount of garlic.
🇷🇴 Field Notes
Best time to go:
Late spring through early autumn. We went in October — spooky skies, golden hills, and just enough sunshine to keep the mist at bay (until it didn’t).What we paid:
Bran Castle entrance: around €17 (supplements for the Torture Chamber and the Time Tunnel)
Decent lunch menu in Brașov: €10 per person
Monastery entry: free (donations welcome)Stay nearby:
We based ourselves in Zărnești/Măgura — a short drive from Bran and a whole different world vibe-wise. You’ll find more character and fewer coach tours.Getting around:
Absolutely rent a car. Driving’s chaotic, signage is optional, and there will be horses — but it’s the only way to truly explore this area on your own terms. If you don’t have wheels, many tours start from Brașov.Pro tips:
– Get to Bran Castle early or late to avoid the crowds, and book tickets in advance
– Bring layers (yes, even in summer)
– Offline maps are your best friend
– Don’t skip the garlic soup
Bran Castle: Enter if you dare
Ok, the vampire floor at Bran Castle is pretty cool…
Let’s just get this out of the way: Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, the Dracula connection is mostly fiction. And yes… it’s still absolutely worth it.
Bran Castle is perched on a rocky outcrop like it’s been Photoshopped in. Its turrets and tunnels spark just the right amount of imagination, and while Vlad the Impaler probably never lived here, he might have visited once. Good enough for us.
We wandered through narrow staircases, peered out stone windows over the valley, and played “spot the vampire merch” in the gift shop (answer: everywhere). It’s not scary — it’s kitschy and iconic and weirdly fun.
It was also the only place in Romania where we felt truly surrounded by tourists. We booked tickets right at the opening to avoid flocks of tourists, and we barely had 40 minutes to ourselves before the first tour buses arrived. But lean into it. You’re literally at Dracula’s Castle. Drink the blood-red wine and enjoy the ride.
It was cold and humid in the castle, so we warmed up with a coffee at Bran Coffee — check it out, the vintage decor is lovely!
Did you know?
Despite the marketing, Bran Castle has no real connection to Vlad the Impaler — the inspiration for Dracula. He never lived there, and maybe never even visited. But with fog, spires, and secret staircases, it feels like a vampire could still be lurking.
We did pay for the extra “experiences” — the Torture Chamber and the Time Tunnel. Honestly? Not really worth it. The Chamber might give you nightmares — this or you’ll lose your faith in humanity — and the Tunnel is basically an elevator leading you to one more gift shop and a souvenir (and oh-so-tacky) photo. If you’re short on time (or cash), stick to the main rooms and save your lei for a snack after.
Sâmbăta de Sus Cave Monastery: The quiet after the crowd
Pretty unique place!
After Bran, we chased silence — and found it tucked into a forest at the foothills of the Făgăraș Mountains.
Sâmbăta de Sus isn’t on most itineraries, but this little cave monastery was one of the most peaceful places we found on the whole trip. A short walk up a forested trail leads to a rock-hewn chapel with candlelight flickering on stone. You’ll find monks and locals here, but not many tourists.
It’s not flashy. It’s not dramatic. It just is — a stillness that feels carved out of time.
We stayed longer than planned. Maybe it was the incense, or the fact that the clouds finally broke open and gave us a bit of sky, or the holy (we kept saying “magic”) water. Or maybe we just needed a reset after the vampire kitsch.
Either way, it was exactly what we didn’t know we needed.
Penguin Trampoline tip:
Foggy roads, moody weather, and medieval staircases are all part of the charm — but so are sprained ankles and delayed flights. We always travel with insurance (even if it doesn't cover garlic shortages or vampire bites). So,
book good travel insurance (get 5 to 15% off with our partner HeyMondo)!
Râșnov Fortress: The one that got away
Rasnov Fortress - Photo credit rowalk-ro
From a distance, Râșnov Fortress looks like the kind of place that should have a dragon circling it. It’s high on a hill, wrapped in stone walls, and promises sweeping views of the Carpathians.
Unfortunately… it was closed for maintenance.
If you manage to get inside — good for you, because it looks amazing. Let us know if the dragon’s still there!
Brașov Old Town: Pretty, but not the star
Brașov main square, pretty empty on a rainy day
We ended the day with a quick stop in Brașov itself. Pastel buildings, Gothic churches, cozy cafés — it’s got all the ingredients for a European fairytale.
But compared to the wildness just a few kilometres away, it felt a little… touristy? And to be fair, it was raining, so we didn’t stay that long. We had lunch, walked around, and grabbed a delicious corvigi (giant pretzels) filled with Nutella. Oh my.
That said, it’s still a great hub. If you’re not renting a car, Brașov is your launch pad for day trips, castle tours, and mountain escapes. The train station’s well-connected, and the town is definitely walkable and photogenic.
Still — we’d rather be back in the misty hills.
FAQ: Planning your Brașov & Bran adventure 🇷🇴
Is Brașov worth visiting?
It’s pretty, postcard-perfect, and easy to explore — especially if you’re not renting a car. But if you’re after more authenticity (and fewer souvenir shops), you’ll find it in the villages and valleys nearby.
Should I visit Bran Castle?
Yes — once. It's touristy and theatrical, but fun in a kitschy, Halloween-in-July sort of way. The exterior is stunning, the vampire myth is entertaining, and the views are worth the climb. Just lower your expectations for the museum bits.
What about the extra exhibits — are they worth it?
We paid for both the “Torture Chamber” and “Tunnel of Time.” Neither was great. Let’s just say: if you’ve ever been to a seasonal haunted house… you’ve seen better.
How long should I spend in the area?
1–2 days for Brașov and Bran. Add a day or two (or three) if you’re hiking in Zărnești, visiting the Bear Sanctuary, or heading deeper into the Carpathians.
Can I do it without a car?
Yes — Brașov is well connected by train, and many tours depart from there. But if you want to explore smaller villages, monasteries, or mountain roads at your own pace, a rental car is your best bet. Just watch for potholes, horse carts and stray dogs (or vampires…).
Will I see Dracula?
Only if you bring a mirror.
Get in the Transylvanian spirit with this playlist:
We didn’t fall in love, exactly. Bran Castle was fun (in a theme park sort of way), Rasnov was closed, and Brasov felt a bit too polished. But the fog, the forests, and that eerie feeling of history lingering in the air? That stuck with us.
Romania doesn’t try to charm you. It just is — wild, quiet, chaotic. One minute you’re dodging potholes, the next you’re walking through a 700-year-old monastery, wondering if the bears you heard last night were actually that close.
It’s not always smooth, but it’s rarely boring. And if you’re into unpredictable adventures (with the occasional vampire selfie), this might just be your kind of trip.
Dreaming of visiting Romania? Check out our guides:
🇷🇴 Romania Travel Guide: Castles, Carpathians & Wild Encounters — From Bucharest to the mountains, bears to baroque cities, Romania still feels wonderfully wild.
🐻 Piatra Craiului National Park: Magura & Zărnești — Fog, forests, and the friendliest village dogs.
👁️ Sibiu: The City That Watches You — Old rooftops, fresh cheese, and easy charm (coming soon).
⛰️ The Făgăraș Mountains — The day the road disappeared and it was still perfect (coming soon).
🏙️ Bucharest — Beautiful chaos, creative energy, and endless coffee (coming soon).
🛏️ Where to Stay in Romania — Our favourite hotels, cabins, and guesthouses (coming soon).
💡 What Surprised Us About Romania — 10 things we didn’t expect (including how good the food is) (coming soon).
