Bucharest Travel Guide: Street Art, Bookstores & Hidden Magic
Because I’m happy… on the stairs of happiness!
Bucharest surprised us.
We came expecting chaos, and sure — there’s traffic, honking, confusing intersections — but under the surface? A strange charm, layers of history, a little grit, and a lot of curiosity. It’s a place where street art creeps up on old villas, bookstores outnumber grocery stores, and you can eat something called a Joffre cake in a building that looks like a Wes Anderson hotel (we weren’t fans of the cake, but the vibe? Spot on).
Admittedly, we didn’t fall head over heels for Bucharest the way we have in other places, but we’re very glad we went — and we’d absolutely recommend it to anyone curious enough to explore Romania’s complex, creative, caffeinated capital.
And after you book your trip, make sure to get a good travel guide!
🇷🇴 Field Notes
When we went: Mid-October
How long we stayed: 1 night and 2 days
Where we stayed: Hotel Capitol (beautiful building, very central, a bit past its prime)
Would we go back? Yes, with more time and a local guide for the hidden stuff.
Vibe: A little worn, a little weird, definitely artsy, and kind of cool
The big stuff
Errr… where is my office again?
Palace of the Parliament
Let’s get the elephant in the city out of the way. The Palace of the Parliament is the heaviest building in the world (literally), the second-largest administrative building after the Pentagon, and the most expensive Communist megaproject you never asked for. We also walked by the headquarters of the Romanian Intelligence Service (SRI), which are even bigger (or so it looks). You can tour the parliament if you book ahead, or just gawk from outside like we did. Someone clearly had a little complex…
University Square & Surroundings
We wandered here just as golden hour hit, and honestly — gorgeous. Classical facades, students milling around, little parks tucked between grand buildings. One of those areas where you stop to say, “Wait… this is really pretty.”
Grand Hotel Bucharest
Hard to miss, this towering block of communist chic (is that even a term?) has the best views over University Square. And it looks better at night, when lit up in purple. We didn’t stay there but at Hotel Capitol (beautiful building!)
Did you know?
During the Communist era, the Grand Hotel Bucharest (formerly InterContinental) was one of the few places foreigners could stay — which made it a hotbed for surveillance. Rooms were famously bugged by the Securitate (the secret police), and hotel staff were trained to eavesdrop on guests. If those walls could talk… they'd probably have tapes.
The city of books
Carturesti Carusel, in the Old Town
Bucharest reportedly has the most bookstores per capita in the world — we actually checked this, and it’s not exactly true, but it’s definitely a city for bookworms like us! You’ll find some truly stunning bookshops in every neighbourhood, also selling adorable whatnots like bookmarks, mugs, decorations, and everything you can possibly imagine (thank you, Jake, for my super cute acorn-fox-deer candle!). Some of the most popular places for book lovers include:
Carturesti Carusel — The famous “Carousel of Light,” with winding staircases, bright white interiors, and a design that makes you want to read something deep and romantic while sipping tea.
Carturesti Verona — A bookstore in a stunning villa, complete with a garden café, indie gifts, and floors of books. We could just sit on the cosy couches and listen to people playing the piano for hours!
The National Library of Romania — A more serious, sleek building for actual studying and research, if you’re into that kind of thing.
Street art
Arthur Verona Street
Cities with a rough past often grow the coolest creative edges. Think Berlin, Belgrade — and yes, Bucharest. When you've lived through dictatorship, revolution, and decades of grey concrete, self-expression doesn’t just bounce back — it explodes. You'll find it here in the form of bold murals, stencil poetry, paste-up philosophy, and entire alleyways turned open-air galleries. It’s gritty, witty, and refreshingly unpolished. Just how we like it.
Arthur Verona Street
This street is basically Bucharest’s open-air street art gallery. Murals change regularly, often tied to the Street Delivery festival, where the street gets blocked off for pedestrians, performances, and all things indie.
Pasajul Victoria (Umbrella Alley)
This hidden passage is crammed with rainbow umbrellas and café tables — classic Instagram trap, but hey, it’s cheerful and reminded us of Lisbon in Portugal.
The Romanian Paris?
Bucharest’s street signs look a lot like Parisian ones because the city intentionally styled itself after Paris in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was even nicknamed "Little Paris" (Micul Paris) thanks to its grand boulevards, neoclassical architecture, and a strong French cultural influence among Romania’s elite. Street signs were just one of the many Parisian touches — alongside French-style gardens, monuments, and, of course, the language (French was widely spoken in Bucharest's high society at the time).
The Stairs of Happiness (Cotroceni)
Yes, that’s what they’re called. Painted steps in a quiet part of town, covered in handwritten-style affirmations. Sweet? Yes. Cheesy? Maybe. But if you’ve had a long day of urban adventuring, sit here for five minutes and let the optimism sink in. We visited on a grey, rainy day and absolutely loved it.
Neighborhood wandering
Ruins contrast with opulent buildings
Old Town (Lipscani)
Touristy but fun — cobbled streets, cafés spilling out, kitschy souvenir shops, and the occasional surprising bookstore or gallery. Just be ready to be jumped on by eager restaurant staff every 5 minutes.
Dacia & Gradina Icoanei
This area just northeast of Old Town is worth a détour. Belle époque buildings, crumbling mansions, low-key hip cafés, and the kind of vibe that makes you want to buy a typewriter and move in.
Penguin Trampoline tip:
Cab apps like Uber or Bolt are super affordable in Bucharest, so don’t be shy about venturing beyond the city center — places like Cotroceni, Tineretului, or even the far corners of Sector 6 are just a few lei away. Just bring a little patience: Bucharest traffic is no joke. Also, drivers are a bit intense (understatement), so make sure to
book travel insurance (get 5 to 15% off with our partner HeyMondo) just in case!
Cotroceni
We wandered Cotroceni on foot and loved the quiet, leafy vibe. Full of historic villas, embassies, and an elegant/hipster kind of everyday life. Definitely a spot to slow down and enjoy.
Bucharest's churches
Lovely Saint Nicholas Church
Bucharest has over 400 churches — more than enough to surprise anyone who thought Romania was all brutalist blocks and Dracula kitsch. And while some of them are showstoppers (hi, gilded behemoth next to Parliament), it’s often the smaller ones that steal your heart. Step through a side gate on a noisy boulevard and suddenly you’re in another century — frescoes glowing, incense curling, and a monk somewhere ringing a bell that sounds like it's echoing through time. Here are a couple to get you started:
People's Salvation Cathedral
Right next to Parliament, this massive, gold-domed Orthodox cathedral is one of the newest and most controversial buildings in town. Whether you find it awe-inspiring or excessive, it’s impossible to miss. Bonus: the adjacent military and intelligence HQ feels like a Bond villain base.
Kretzulescu Church
A red-brick beauty near the Grand Hotel Bucharest, with Russian vibes, a peaceful courtyard, and candlelit icons. One of the most photogenic little churches we saw in Romania.
Saint Nicholas Church
Not far from the University, this small and hidden church with playful onion domes has Russian fairy-tale energy. It looks like something out of a painting — and feels like stepping into one, too.
Food, coffee & cake (or not)
We had lunch with a very eclectic quartet, ranging from Bach to… La Lambada!
Caru' cu Bere
This is the restaurant tourists flock to in Old Town. It had been recommended to us by family, and we fell into the trap with zero regrets. The building is a neo-gothic stunner, all dark wood, stained glass, and sweeping staircases. The food was… pretty good but pretty expensive. Fortunately, we had a quartet concert ranging from classical music to… La Lambada. Definitely go for the ambiance.
Joffre Cake
Romania’s most famous dessert is named after a French general, created for him in 1920. As a French, I (Eli) must say it doesn’t taste like a French cake, at least where we ate it. In our opinion, too much liquor and too sweet. Still worth trying once for the history. But personally, we prefer a good covrigi!
Ciorbărie
After a cold, rainy day, there’s nothing better than a steamy bowl of soup! Ciorbărie is tiny local chain that’s basically an altar to the power of ciorbă (soup). Whether you go for classic chicken, smoked sausage or something more adventurous (tripes, anyone?), it’s cheap, delicious and so comforting!
Coffee Scene
Bucharest has a surprisingly excellent third-wave coffee scene. Try places like Origo, M60, Beans & Dots or the "“Romanian Starbucks” 5 to go if you’re a fellow bean nerd.
FAQ: Visiting Bucharest 🇷🇴
Where should I stay in Bucharest (and Romania in general)?
We’ve got a whole post dedicated to our favourite hotels, guesthouses, and mountain cabins across the country — including where we stayed in Bucharest. Check it out here →
Carturesti Verona Bookstore
Is Bucharest safe for tourists?
Yes, very. Like any big city, stay aware of your surroundings, but we walked around late and felt absolutely fine.
Is it walkable?
Old Town and the central neighborhoods are super walkable. You might want a Bolt or Uber for other parts of the city.
Should I go to Bucharest or skip it?
If you like cities with history, character, and a bit of edge — yes. Just don’t expect it to be polished or easy.
Are the Bucharest Therme worth it?
We didn’t go. While it’s one of the biggest wellness complexes in Europe and gets rave reviews, it felt more like a giant indoor pool party than the kind of historical thermal bathhouse you’d find, say, in Budapest. If you’re craving cocktails and palm trees in a sauna, go for it — but it wasn’t really our vibe this trip.
Any cool tours worth booking?
Look for architecture walking tours or street art tours. We didn’t have time, but they come highly recommended.
Get in the Bucharest vibe with this playlist (is it me or many of these could perform at Eurovision?):
Bucharest isn’t easy to sum up — and that’s exactly why it stuck with us. It’s a city of big contradictions: monumental and crumbling, poetic and practical, buttoned-up and delightfully weird. You’ll find gold-plated cathedrals next to Brutalist blocks, secret bookstores around the corner from megamalls, and street art blooming on buildings that once had their phones bugged.
Compared to the Romanian countryside — quieter, more modest, and in many places still shaped by rural traditions and Roma communities — Bucharest feels like a completely different universe. It’s louder. More expensive. Faster. But if you give it time (and maybe a coffee or three), it’ll start to show you its softer, smarter side.
Planning a trip to Romania? Check out our guides:
🇷🇴 Romania Travel Guide: Castles, Carpathians & Wild Encounters — From Bucharest to the mountains, bears to baroque cities, Romania still feels wonderfully wild.
🐻 Piatra Craiului National Park: Magura & Zărnești — Fog, forests, and the friendliest village dogs.
🏰 Brasov & Beyond — Castles, cobblestones, and just enough Dracula.
⛰️ Sibiu & the Făgăraș Mountains — Rooftop stares, smoky cheese, and the road that vanished into the clouds.
🛏️ Where to Stay in Romania — Our favourite hotels, cabins, and guesthouses.
💡 What Surprised Us About Romania — 10 things we didn’t expect (including how good the food is) (coming soon).
